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Most Rt owners probably know already Adding coolant to RT can be a trying experience due to location... I put a thin film of silicone grease
on rim of coolant tank and on rubber seals of cap and use a liquid transfer
pump bulb type to transfer coolant to tank and cap removes from tank so
much easier and locks down well also...
Freebob...:doorag:
That's a nice hint to know, Freebob. Thanks
Cotton
You should send this hint to cow town crew I am sure they could use it if they haven't already.:ohyea:Quote:
Originally Posted by freebob
...the coolant reservoir (bottle) develops cracks...?
With less than 10K miles on my 2009 SE5, its coolant tank has to be replaced due to hairline cracks at front (leaking badly) and at rear (not yet leaking but crack is already developing).
Coincidentially, the cracks are located just on top of the lines where the internal baffle is glued / stuck / secured to the bottle.
Sliced open the damaged bottle and could not find anything that might explain why the cracks develop in those specific places...
The cracks do not match the edge of the frame member that hold the bottle in place, nor the edges of those brackets where the front shocks are bolted to. So I can gather that there are no friction points with them.
Anybody wants to guess...?
Saludos, Pilo
Cracked tank not really related to this post, But I have seen this happen on Auto coolant tanks also, Just the nature of the beast...:dontknow:...Quote:
Originally Posted by Pilo
Freebob...:doorag:
New to the :spyder2: and thank you for the 'heads up' on the tank and the advice so I can plan ahead.
Maybe the internal baffles reenforce and transfer the stress to the other areas of the tank not designed to take it. My 'guess' is worth what you pay for it. :D A.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Archer
:hun::dontknow::dontknow::dontknow::coffee:
I use a 12"+ funnel with a flexible hose and I can get it in the top of the tank. I got from Wal-Mart I believe. Cost around $5 I think
This is a great post and very timely for me. Thanks for the simple problem solver method. As they say, it takes a village to make things happen. :2thumbs::bowdown:
Quote:
Originally Posted by freebob
Freebob: Sorry if I somehow hijacked your thread..., not intended... :opps:
But the issue that I raised remains an unsolved mistery... :dontknow:
No problem, I understand...More vibration on MC/Spyder could cause thatQuote:
Originally Posted by Pilo
problem....
Freebob...:doorag:
That works also....Less than $3.00 at Harbor Freight plus you can also remove excess fluid...:coffee:...Quote:
Originally Posted by M109Dreamer
Freebob...:doorag:
Thanks Guys, I certainly do not profess to be a PROFFESER..... But being a mechanic by nature I do find easier ways to get the job done...:coffee:...
Freebob...:doorag:
i was too late i just put anti freze in mine and had a hell of a time geting the lid back on.but ill know next time thanks.:dontknow::gaah::chat:
But how can you see to feel this bottle up. Do you just over fill? I've know when your looking in from trunk area you can only see the top cap. :banghead:
Just spent the last couple of hours trying to figure out what was leaking. I believe it to be coolant, I cleaned the area and checked the coolant bottle and it seems to be crack free. The overflow valve seems to be where it is draining from. I topped to off to the max line and used the helpful hint of a flexible funnel, I will check in the morning to see if anything drained through the night. But lets say I do have to replace/repair bottle. Any helpful hints on how to get that out of there? By the way, I have a 2009 RS/SM5.
From my experience with my 2009 SE5, I can tell you that it is a lot easier to find the leak after the engine has been started and it is fully warmed up. The cracks in my plastic bottle developed lined up with the bottle internal baffle, but were not visible when the engine was cold because there was no pressure and temperature in the cooling system.Quote:
Originally Posted by Spydeb
I came home from a late afternoon trip and parked the SE5 in my front porch and went inside. After a couple of hours I came back to look for something in the "frunk" and found a greenish pool under the engine. This means that after I switched the engine off, the engine maintained (and probably raised) its temperature because there was no cooling effect; thus the pressure and temperature in the plastic bottle kept the cracks open and the leaks continued.
Since the bottle works under high temperatures and some pressure, there is not much to be done in terms of repairs, and I would not feel "warm and fuzzy" knowing that the old "toasted" bottle (in time) may develop more cracks. I replaced mine, including the cap (just in case).
To get the bottle out you have to remove most of the "Tupperware" on the right side and some of the front. It seats on a semi-round bracket and it is secured to it with some clips from underneath. Remove all the hoses and replace their clamps when re-installing. Make sure that you maintain the main water hose upright, so as not to loose more coolant after the bottle is removed. It is a somewhat cumbersome job, but be patient and keep you cool...
Hope this helps. Fell free to ask as many questions as you may need.
Saludos...