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My extended warranty is out and I’ve just discovered an issue with my rear suspension. Once upon a time adjusting the air pressure would raise or lower the back end an inch or so, now it does nothing.
Questions - How much is required to dig in an replace the air bladder?
- If it’s not the air bladder what next? Compressor?
- Is it worth it? I can’t complain about the ride. Should I just ignore it?
- Is a cheaper option just to get a Fox shock and forget it?
I have had a similar problem with my 2012 RTS. It has been in the shop 3 times for the same issue. Each time the air compressor had failed and needed to be replaced. Luckily for me, they have all been covered under warranty. The first time it was under the regular warranty and the last two times it was covered under the BEST warranty but I had to pay the $50.00 deductible. My BEST warranty runs out in MAY of 2018 and I am a little concerned if it happens after that because I am sure it can get expensive for the repair. The first time it failed, the compressor came apart internally. The second time it just blew apart. The third time it failed electrically. I just sent a letter to BRP Customer Service yesterday with my concerns and requested a refund of the $100.00 I had to pay for the deductibles because it was a continual problem. My dealership that completed the repairs tells me that this is not something that they see very often. The bottom line is that this is the fourth compressor that has been in my Can-am and it only has 31,000 miles on it. Don't get me wrong, I love this machine and my wife and I truly enjoy the time that we spend riding it. I am waiting to hear back from customer service.
To answer your question, I believe that it is something that you should get repaired because my machine did not ride very well when the compressor failed especially when I was riding 2 up with my wife. It always seemed to lose air over time even if I added air manually in the valve under the seat. Good luck.
Been there, done that. Scroll down and there are a few videos on how I did mine in 2015. I put a Viair 98C air compressor in ($75) Walmart on line and 4 oz of green slime in the air bag I removed, then our Rock Armour. No problems since then. About 35k on it since.
http://dochumphreys.wixsite.com/roadster/install
Hmmm - starting off with the slime might be a good 1st step, right?Quote:
Originally Posted by Roadster Renovations
I was very concerned with putting the slime through the schrader port. That goes down and tees twice; once to the dump valve and then again it branches for the compressor and then the airbag. I was afraid of gumming up the lines and components. For that reason I removed the AB and poured the slime down the opening at the top. Since the hole is on the bottom (99% are) it treated the area needed and stayed away from the stuff that it might cause problems with. I have heard of some people doing it, but I have no idea how it would work long term.Quote:
Originally Posted by OverHillAndDale
What I did worked and has worked for almost 3 seasons and about 40,000 miles. It isn't an easy repair, but done correctly, it should solve any air bag issues.
Base RT and most F3 do not have a compressor. Run the line from the bag to the schrader valve under the seat. Fill with 50#. Check the next day. If it is still at 50, it is the compressor leaking. If you want, put a fobo on it. Otherwise, check it before each ride, like your tires. Some folks have a small hand pump, others have a 12V compressor. Works fine!
You definitely can not ride 2 up without air in the air bag. You can bypass the compressor if it is shot by adding air through the schrader valve, but you have to have air in the bag to ride and if that is where the leak is, you must fix that first.
The compressor seems to be the weak link. When I lost mine the dealer who replaced it told me he had just ordered 4 because he had been replacing a number of them. A week later a friends went out as well.
I thought to just manual fill it until it was fixed, but it would not hold air so I thought the bag was also bad. Turned out the dump valve remained open after the compressor quit.
If yours holds air and you have the auto leveler I would disconnect the arm so it doesn't release air at stops resulting in a poor ride since it's not be able add air as you ride.
If/When he compressor fails again I will either replace it with a better one (like Doc did), or run a line directly from bag to fill valve as Joe suggested.
Lots of great advice, thanks. If the compressor is shot I like Doc Humphrey’s idea of the off-brand compressor for $75, BRP is really proud of their parts.
I will definitely try to measure the air pressure by hand in the meantime. I dread getting into a project this size, but I refuse to pay my local deal whatever parts and labor would be for this, and my bike is out of warranty.
I traded my 2011 RTL for a 2015 and am having a similar issue outlined in http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...r-Shock-Issues. I am concerned about the dealer not being able to find the issue and this will continue through my warranty period. At $50 a pop, that will become expensive quick.
Check to see if your state has a lemon law and use it if you qualify.Quote:
Originally Posted by BitSlayer
Good idea.... Thanks for the post....Quote:
Originally Posted by RinconRyder
I can’t yet speak to the compressor, but the bag is definitely a problem. I have filled it to about 40 lbs three times and it is down to 0 seconds later. If it were a slow lead I’d consider the slime, but for a leak this big I suspect that’s not really an option.
I may order the compressor as well, and return it if replacing the bag doesn’t fix the problem.
Disconnecting the leveling valve won't help. When you add weight to the bike, the leveling valve sees that and kicks on the compressor. When you get off, the leveling valve sees that and tells another switch to dump air out. Of course, the leveling valve sees all sorts of weight on-and-off differences, like slowing down and stopping at a stop sign. So if your compressor is bad, it won't add air, but the other switch will let air out--- and very soon you have no air in the bag. (if the bag is good to start with). The air-out switch can be disconnected by pulling the quick disconnect apart. It is located (kinda-sorta) under the Schrader valve. IF the bag is good, this lets you put air in manually and the bag will stay inflated. Of course, it seems like every bike model is a tad bit different, so your mileage may vary.......
My ride is a 2012 RTs.
The compressor stopped producing air (shaft to crank screw loose) and I replaced it with the V1Air 97c from Amazon. Cost $74.00 NZD.
It requires a little manipulation to install and moving the brake reservoir out from the frame a few mm so the compressor does not rub on the brake lines.
My issue is that when I stop i notice that the air release is bleeding air and the compressor is pumping the bag up again.
It seems like a solenoid clicking on and off.
Would this be a level sensor issue or maybe a buds reset.
Cheers
Unless your compressor starts running & doesn't stop, then I don't think either of your concerns above are applicable - the system is simply working the way it should... or at least the way mine & every other one I've seen does. :dontknow:Quote:
Originally Posted by Poody
As others have said, any change in weight/pressure can trigger the air level device & thereby the air compressor... starting, stopping, even rapid accel or braking, anything that loads up the rear a tad more than it was a moment ago & the air compressor can kick in to re-adjust after the change! :thumbup:
Take Doc's advice and follow his video. If not, don't replace BRP's crappy compressor with another BRP crappy compressor. There's a bunch of good info and advice on this page regarding this very subject. Don't let anyone kid you, the compressor problem is about as popular as the belt vibration problem. Look how BRP tried to solve that problem with another crappy part. A plastic one bearing idler. Again, Doc came to the rescue and built and decent idler. If BRP didn't have their heads where the sun doesn't shine they'd be putting Doc on the payroll. :roflblack:
If you have a repair manual, you will find a procedure to calibrate the level sensor's low and high limits, and storing those limits with BUDS. Called ACS Position Sensor Reset. This essentially sets the control band for the system between the low setting and high setting. Too small a band results in excessive sensitivity to changes in ride height and excessive operation of the compressor and vent valve. Proper calibration doesn't eliminate what you're seeing, it just lessens the severity and frequency of it, and it does seem to help a bit. It sure doesn't make up for an overpriced, piece of crap compressor. But it might serve to extend it's life a bit.Quote:
Originally Posted by Poody
Thanks for the suggestions people.
Looks like a trip to the overpriced service provider to get a Buds calibration.
Thanks again
the very same thing and mine has been great ever since. My compressor failure was simply a stuck brush on the motor, fixed that and now use it as a portable AC!!!!!!!!!!!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Roadster Renovations
----------Quote:
Originally Posted by OverHillAndDale
For what it's worth.......I'm in the process of paying my portion of a $1200 bill for replacement of the ACS at my local dealer. The RPMOne Diamond Extended Warranty the dealer I purchased the Spyder from sold me is completely based on the BRP Flat Rate Book.....which after much discussion, I can't get ANYONE to admit is wrong for this job. The book only allows around 1 hour to replace the ACS !!! This supposedly includes ALL work necessary to diagnose the problem part, remove the rear wheel to even get at the parts, replace the parts, and reinstall and align the rear wheel !!!
My portion of the bill is for labor and all sales tax, and RPMOne is only paying for parts plus 1.2 hours labor for the job. AGAIN, they will only pay whatever BRP says it should take, and BRP says around 1 hour - all things considered.
Now.....anyone out there want to tell me that they can do this entire job in around an hour ??????
Oh yeah.....almost forgot.....My bill is right at $560 U.S. The mileage is 20,000.
I agree with Joe Meyer. My compressor went out on the Alaska trip and had the shop run the line direct from the shrade valve to compressor. On my return home my friend, riding same bike had his compressor go out and I run the line direct for him. We have found the air will hold up a full season. The good part also is the line only cost a few cents, and if you are a little mechanicaly inclined you can do it yourself. The air line is just standard plastic brake line, no new fittings needed. Bothe bikes 2012 RT Limited.
Good luck
Roger