H7 Bulb Replacement

I don't ride at night much. Last night my wife had our Spyder out in an RV park and came home after dark. She had no headlights! Today I checked the 30amp headlight fuse under the right side of the seat - no issue there. So then I went ahead and removed the instrument panel to access the bulbs. To do this I had to modify a small screwdriver by bending the flat blade to depress the plastic tabs on the instrument panel.

Then I had to reach inside the front cowling to try and release the halogen bulb. The manual makes it sound simple - just remove the rear cover and turn the bulb holder counter-clockwise. Okay, I wear an XL glove size, but at 5-09 and 190 lbs I'm not that far off of an average size guy. It was painful to force my hand into the small clearance to crank the bulb out. The H7 halogen bulbs were toast. After a trip to the local auto parts store, trying to engage the new bulb into the mount was a task I don't want to repeat.

Anyway, I succeeded. Rant over, job done. I wish the engineers that design this stuff were guys that actually worked on things instead of guys (and gals) that had an aptitude for math and got a mechanical engineering degree. I'm sure original assembly involved putting this together on a bench then screwing the entire assembly to the rolling chassis.:mad:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Koop

I don't ride at night much. Last night my wife had our Spyder out in an RV park and came home after dark. She had no headlights! Today I checked the 30amp headlight fuse under the right side of the seat - no issue there. So then I went ahead and removed the instrument panel to access the bulbs. To do this I had to modify a small screwdriver by bending the flat blade to depress the plastic tabs on the instrument panel.

Then I had to reach inside the front cowling to try and release the halogen bulb. The manual makes it sound simple - just remove the rear cover and turn the bulb holder counter-clockwise. Okay, I wear an XL glove size, but at 5-09 and 190 lbs I'm not that far off of an average size guy. It was painful to force my hand into the small clearance to crank the bulb out. The H7 halogen bulbs were toast. After a trip to the local auto parts store, trying to engage the new bulb into the mount was a task I don't want to repeat.

Anyway, I succeeded. Rant over, job done. I wish the engineers that design this stuff were guys that actually worked on things instead of guys (and gals) that had an aptitude for math and got a mechanical engineering degree. I'm sure original assembly involved putting this together on a bench then screwing the entire assembly to the rolling chassis.:mad:

---

I haven't tackled that job yet. Not looking forward to it. I don't mine a challenge, but not something that could have been engineered better.
David

Have changed a few but never without cuts and bruises...:banghead::banghead:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Chupaca

Have changed a few but never without cuts and bruises...:banghead::banghead:

---

Thanks for the pep talk:gaah::coffee:
David

Yup been there have the scars. Uh, do both bulbs always. When I replaced my first one, then turned on the head lamps and blew the other one..:shocked:

yep me too
Had blood running of my hands. Would have had more if i could get my hands around the engineer that designed this system.

Bit again that's for most anything u do to them there is NO ROOM

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Chupaca

Have changed a few but never without cuts and bruises...:banghead::banghead:

---

Obviously not a job for a guy who takes a blood thinner!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Koop

I don't ride at night much. Last night my wife had our Spyder out in an RV park and came home after dark. She had no headlights! Today I checked the 30amp headlight fuse under the right side of the seat - no issue there. So then I went ahead and removed the instrument panel to access the bulbs. To do this I had to modify a small screwdriver by bending the flat blade to depress the plastic tabs on the instrument panel.

Then I had to reach inside the front cowling to try and release the halogen bulb. The manual makes it sound simple - just remove the rear cover and turn the bulb holder counter-clockwise. Okay, I wear an XL glove size, but at 5-09 and 190 lbs I'm not that far off of an average size guy. It was painful to force my hand into the small clearance to crank the bulb out. The H7 halogen bulbs were toast. After a trip to the local auto parts store, trying to engage the new bulb into the mount was a task I don't want to repeat.

Anyway, I succeeded. Rant over, job done. I wish the engineers that design this stuff were guys that actually worked on things instead of guys (and gals) that had an aptitude for math and got a mechanical engineering degree. I'm sure original assembly involved putting this together on a bench then screwing the entire assembly to the rolling chassis.:mad:

---

I just needed one replaced, couldn't get it out. Seated on bike reaching straight in wasn't working. Called dealer; jerk wanted me to make appointment for a month from now and put it in shop for 2 weeks to replace. (no way).

talked to a kid at the local O'Reilly's (Murray) auto parts. The kid stood in front facing the rear of bike with windshield off. He got the leverage to pop out the H7 bulb in seconds.

I too have had to replace the headlights; manual shows easy peasy; WRONG. However if you have the luxury to do this @ home rather than on the road, you might consider doing it this way.

Remove the y shaped piece of tupperware that covers the frame from the steering head back to the gas tank. On each side of the frame there is single # 30 tork screw, remove both of them. Go to the front just behind the frunk and where the latch for the frunk sits there is a small square u shaped tube that supports the front of the assembly that houses the cluster and head lights; remove both bolts.

The housing is now free except for the wiring harness attachment. Pad the left front fender and invert the housing and rest it on the fender pad. You now have complete access AND you can SEE the bulb housings and the replacement is markedly easier.

While your in there replace those H-7 halogens with H-7 LEDs from Ultra Bright. You will need to trim the retaining clip that locks the head light bulb in the housing. A WORD OF CAUTION; these clips have no part # to be able to replace them, they are part of the wiring harness that contains the attachment connectors for the H-7 bulbs; cost for replacement of the harness is $271.00!!!!!!

Contacted BRP, yes they have the clips seperate from the harness, as they make their own wiring harnesses. However they will not sell you any of the clips; these must be purchased from your dealer; RIGHT; when was the last time that you were able to order a part from the dealer that doesn't have it's own part number..... The perfect catch 22.

So if you are going to replace your H-7's with LED's be VERY CAREFUL when trimming the locking clip to allow the round LED body to pass through an oblong hole in the locking clip. It can be done, even I was able to do this so it's not that tough, just nerve wracking.

Al in Kazoo

I have found removing the H7 bulbs to be a gigantic pain. I tried installing the LED's on my RSS from xenondepot with no success since the clips have to be modified like previously mentioned. In the process of removing one of the bulbs I damaged the bracket where the clip locks into. I bought a used headlight assembly to repair the damage I did. Overall I would say the engineers made this set up way more complicated and difficult than it needs to be. When I get around to replacing the headlight assembly I will see how hard it is to modify the clips and see if it's something I want to deal with. I know some people have done it successfully but I'm not sure I want the aggravation.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by IGETAROUND

I too have had to replace the headlights; manual shows easy peasy; WRONG. However if you have the luxury to do this @ home rather than on the road, you might consider doing it this way.

Remove the y shaped piece of tupperware that covers the frame from the steering head back to the gas tank. On each side of the frame there is single # 30 tork screw, remove both of them. Go to the front just behind the frunk and where the latch for the frunk sits there is a small square u shaped tube that supports the front of the assembly that houses the cluster and head lights; remove both bolts.

The housing is now free except for the wiring harness attachment. Pad the left front fender and invert the housing and rest it on the fender pad. You now have complete access AND you can SEE the bulb housings and the replacement is markedly easier.

While your in there replace those H-7 halogens with H-7 LEDs from Ultra Bright. You will need to trim the retaining clip that locks the head light bulb in the housing. A WORD OF CAUTION; these clips have no part # to be able to replace them, they are part of the wiring harness that contains the attachment connectors for the H-7 bulbs; cost for replacement of the harness is $271.00!!!!!!

Contacted BRP, yes they have the clips seperate from the harness, as they make their own wiring harnesses. However they will not sell you any of the clips; these must be purchased from your dealer; RIGHT; when was the last time that you were able to order a part from the dealer that doesn't have it's own part number..... The perfect catch 22.

So if you are going to replace your H-7's with LED's be VERY CAREFUL when trimming the locking clip to allow the round LED body to pass through an oblong hole in the locking clip. It can be done, even I was able to do this so it's not that tough, just nerve wracking.

Al in Kazoo

---

Thanks for the tip. I am about to install a J&M CB Radio. I might as well replace the headlights. Would you recommend removing the windscreen?

Thanks again,
Thom