Has anyone successfully used a Mity Vac bleeder or similar system to bleed the brakes on the Spyder?. If so, what would be the proper bleeding sequence?
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Has anyone successfully used a Mity Vac bleeder or similar system to bleed the brakes on the Spyder?. If so, what would be the proper bleeding sequence?
I'm not familiar with the commercial setups... but they sure should work just fine! :thumbup:
I had a Polaris ATV that would just get so airbound that you couldn't pump up anything with the lever...
Solution? I'd hook a Turkey baster up to the bleed valve (with it's bulb fully squeezed and compressed)
Open the valve, release the bulb, and it'd pull the fluid down through the system slicker than snot! ;)
So if a nincompoop like me can figure that one out; it's got to work!
[QUOTE=Bob Denman;651076] Solution? I'd hook a Turkey baster up to the bleed valve (with it's bulb fully squeezed and compressed)
Open the valve, release the bulb, and it'd pull the fluid down through the system slicker than snot! ;)
QUOTE]
Bob, sounds reasonable, but will you test it out on your spider and let us know if it work? :)
:opps: Ummmm... :opps:
I've not actually looked into what might be necessary to bleed the brakes on Fawkes yet...
I will say that my RT's brakes work great; I'm thinking about ordering some EBC pads for a bit of an upgrade when the time comes to replace the OEMs...
I use a Mity Vac on my bikes but the Spyder doesn't have enough mileage yet. I'd recommend downloading one of the service manuals so you can have the bleeding instructions at hand as there are about 5-6 pages of instructions. IIRC you need to disconnect the battery when bleeding so BUDS won't go into alarm for low pressure.Quote:
Originally Posted by ICE
JT
:shocked: Disconnect the WHAT?? And lose all of my radio presets, clock settings, audio settings, and whatever else when the World goes dark? http://smileys.smileycentral.com/cat/36/36_11_1.gif
Well ????? danger,,,, danger,,,, danger,, ID 10 T is approaching.. :roflblack:
"ID10T" is my driver's license number! :roflblack:
You wont loose your radio preset disconnecting the battery.
JT, I always read if you do your own break work (like flushing, etc) you have to have buds to clear codes?
Does unhooking the battery actually work?
Bob
Bob,Quote:
Originally Posted by finless
I've not done it on my Spyder yet, I just did a quick review of the process in the service manual and it does say to check pressure with BUDS hooked up so I assume if you check pressure with the battery disconnected you won't trip the BUDS Nanny. I'm not sure what would happen if you pump the pedal with the battery connected and no pressure. One thing for sure if the battery is not connected BUDS must fall asleep after any caps run out of juice.
JT
I have always done my own break jobs on most my cars. When the time comes I sure would like to do it on my Spyder. Mechanically it does not look hard at all.
So if you ever do it yourself and it works, it would be great to write it up so those that want to save money can :)
Thanks!
Bob
:shocked: Well THAT'S a relief! :DQuote:
Originally Posted by finless
You have no idea how much trouble I had figuring out how to stuff them into the radio the first time... :opps:
It will be 8500 miles from now for me...Quote:
Originally Posted by finless
JT
Mark replaced my pads and bleed the brakes on my 2009 RS...we had to go to dealer...hookup to BUDS...$50....but if we ever get the ST back on the road and to the point that I need brakes...we'll try to unhook battery and see what happens
I just changed my brake fluid and bled the vcm.As long as you don't turn key on you won't get any codes.Every thing works perfect.I have a 2008 gs:ohyea:
Can you amplify on the procedures used? Some of us have been tempted to give this a try but are hesitant. Did you start with a certain wheel and work your way around? What tools?Quote:
Originally Posted by skeetshooter
Any info you can provide will be apprec.
:popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn:Quote:
Originally Posted by ulflyer
I used 1 friend 1 quart dot 3-4.I sucked the old fluid out with a turkey baster then filled it up with new fluid.We started on left front stuck a piece of clear tubing over bleeder valve my friend worked the bleeder while i worked the brake peddle.We pump until we got clear fluid.We then did the right front then the back all the same way.Just be sure bleeder valve is closed before you let brake peddle up each time.The vcm is hard to get to, went in on left side pulled left panels off to get to it.The bleeder valve is on top it is hell to get clear tubing over bleeder valve.It would have been alot easier to take the trunk off but it can be done without it.Be sure to keep fluid near full when doing it you don't want to get air in system.I
used just about the whole quart,took about 1 hour 1 1/2 we had to stop and drink a few shop supplies.Its easy to do just watch what your doing.:2thumbs:
Thank you! I am saving this post until the time comes!
Bob
I have 1 2011 RT SE5. I have not had to bleed the brakes, but disconnecting the battery should not be a problem. I have disconnected mine several times to add relays, switches, etc. No Codes and nothing needed reset.
Just reading the service manual this morning and like skeetshooter did the bleeding sequence is:
Left Front
Right Front
Rear
VCM
They have you do all kinds of things and some I don't understand and some make sense:
remove front wheels
remove the calipers and position bleeder at highest point
detach lift cylinder and passenger switch from seat
unplug low pressure switch connector and brake light connector
detach brake fluid reservoir and move to outside the footrest
Ah here is the note: the previous steps are required for the hoses to run completely down toward the master cylinder.
Then they go into installing clear hose on bleeder valves and bleeding the brakes...
JT
... You do the Hokey Pokey, and you turn yourself about... :roflblack:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UwWnP3pTyTs
I just read the manual. I think the sequence in removing the reservoir ios so you don't spill brake fluid on the plasticQuote:
Originally Posted by jthornton
When I took my 2011 RS-S SE5 for the 14,500 mile maintenance. The tech said that he had a better way to bleed the brakes. When I got the bill to pay there was a note that said there was a problem with brakes and I had to pay $500.00 more to have it done the right way. I put my Spyder on the trailer and took it to another Dealer. The Dealer that tried to screw me over is no longer in business. The power of the Internet is great.Quote:
Originally Posted by ahh-cool
Mike
I haven't done my spyder yet, but there is no reason I am aware of that a mity-vac wouldn't work. They aren't that expensive if you shop around, you don't have to have anyone assist you with the job, and you can use the same tool to bleed/flush the brake systems in your other vehicle. A vacula works even faster but costs a bunch more.
I did mine and did not need to use a vacuum tool. Just leave the key off after releasing the park brake and then start with the left front. Put a rubber or clear hose on the bleeder and put it in a clear container with enough brake fluid in it to cover the bottom of the hose. This will keep air out. Open the bleeder and slowly pump the brake pedal until all the dirty fluid comes out (keep filling the reservoir with fresh fluid so it doesn't run dry. Shut the bleeder and repeat at right front then the rear. You can use the vacuum if you want that should work fine as well. I had a vacuum tool but turned out not to need it.
My experience with the Mitty Vac was it "sucked" too good and I kept getting tiny bubbles. Found out the bubbles were coming from the bleeder valve threads. So now I remove the valves and add a little teflon tape to the threads then put back. Never a problem after that. I have found a Motion Pro bleeder to be easy to use also. It has a one way valve.
http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0143/
This took some deep searching. Thanks....if you’re still around :roflblack:
Quote:
Originally Posted by skeetshooter
Quote:
Originally Posted by skeetshooter
Vacuum bleeder works well for a one person job and found when I owned a Honda and bleed the clutch a vacuum bleeder saved me lots of headaches. I could not get the Honda bleed correctly until I put a vacuum bleeder on it. IMO saves times and one person can do the job at hand
just did mine yesterday and had my wife pump the pedal and hold it.
no codes , no problems. did suck out the master and refill as needed.
lots of info on here. thanks for all the help here amidst all the threads!!
:bowdown::bowdown::bowdown::yes::yes:--irv
You’re welcome :roflblack:
Actually just redid mine this afternoon after throwing a code this weekend.
And...I did the stupid procedure by the CanAm manual. :shocked:
Put a hose on EACH bleeder valve including the ABS box.
left, right, back, ABS
battery disconnected whole time, ebrake off.
Even went through the trouble of adding Teflon tape to each bleeder valve (not at ABS :( )
Nice clear fluid through everything.
On my ST-S the ABS box can actually be reached through the left wheel opening very easily :thumbup:
Topped off fluids along the way, buttoned everything back up.
Replaced battery at the same time. ( 5 years old in 2 weeks)
Turn key on, parking brake back on, threw no codes.
We are in monsoon season apparently so haven’t started it or ridden it yet, but have a more solid pedal than I’ve had in a long time. :thumbup:
.
You really need to take it in to the dealer to do the BUDS bleeding process now. Not sure what all it does other than a calibration of the electronic distribution module with the pressure in the system. Remember, the braking system is controlled by Nanny so you'll want to be sure Nanny has all the requisite data to properly control the brakes. From what I read in the manual the one thing that can happen if all is not calibrated is the rear wheel can lock up under hard braking. It won't do that if the ABS is calibrated and working correctly.
There's no way to know by riding if the brake system is in proper condition for it to be controlled by Nanny.
Going to try to get it to the dealer.
Problem is we only have one close dealer and they sell all kinds of bikes, atv’s and watercraft...so hard to get in and get out. Not leaving the bike for two days for a half hour job.