DIY Laser Align with DIY Tool

After reading all the post and watching all the You Tube videos I thought I can do that. My 2011 RT was starting to show some uneven wear on the original tires. I took a steel plate and cut a 4.250 inch circle with a .250 inch hole in the center. I used 4.250 because that was the diameter of the roll of masking tape I had. To this I epoxied 3 each 5 lb. magnets to correspond with the location of the wheel studs. I then made a spacer to space the laser out to clear the wheel spokes and attached the laser with a .250 bolt. To my surprise the thing worked perfect and what a difference it made in the ride and handling in the corners. To center the front wheels I did a cross measurement from the end of the bars to a premeasured location on the passengers back rest. I then placed a level on top of the bars and fine tuned the location. We have a dealer in the area but they charge $250 which I thought was a little steep, also they do not have much experience, hence the price. I know this is probably not perfect but it will do until Squared Away comes to town in October.

now that sounds good!



however,

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Originally Posted by OlJim

After reading all the post and watching all the You Tube videos I thought I can do that. My 2011 RT was starting to show some uneven wear on the original tires. I took a steel plate and cut a 4.250 inch circle with a .250 inch hole in the center. I used 4.250 because that was the diameter of the roll of masking tape I had. To this I epoxied 3 each 5 lb. magnets to correspond with the location of the wheel studs. I then made a spacer to space the laser out to clear the wheel spokes and attached the laser with a .250 bolt. To my surprise the thing worked perfect and what a difference it made in the ride and handling in the corners. To center the front wheels I did a cross measurement from the end of the bars to a premeasured location on the passengers back rest. I then placed a level on top of the bars and fine tuned the location. We have a dealer in the area but they charge $250 which I thought was a little steep, also they do not have much experience, hence the price. I know this is probably not perfect but it will do until Squared Away comes to town in October.

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You won’t be the first DIY alignment that we have had to unscrew. See you in October.

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Originally Posted by SpyderAnn01

You won’t be the first DIY alignment that we have had to unscrew. See you in October.

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Come on Ann give me a break, it may not be perfect but it is definitely better than it was and you will get my money instead of the local guy.

The whole idea is to align the front wheels off of the rear wheel. The lasers are simply a very accurate tool with which to accomplish this. Properly done, it is actually a 3 wheel alignment.

If you are using the rear wheel as the basis for your front wheel alignment, then you are on the right track.

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Originally Posted by BajaRon

The whole idea is to align the front wheels off of the rear wheel. The lasers are simply a very accurate tool with which to accomplish this. Properly done, it is actually a 3 wheel alignment.

If you are using the rear wheel as the basis for your front wheel alignment, then you are on the right track.

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Yeah you can actually do it with a plumb bob, tape measure, framing square and a chalk line but it is a lot easier with a laser level, especially if your laser is held in place with magnets and can be easily attached and removed. Your finished product is only as good as your tools.

A friend asked if I would take a look at the alignment on his 2015 Spyder. He stated he was not comfortable riding over 60 because of the unsteady ride. After alignment he took it on some twisties and he said it felt so good he took it on the turnpike and ran it up to 80 and held it there for awhile. Said it just sat there like it was supposed to, no twitch, no bobble, no weave. Says he is going to buy me a lobster dinner for the favor. Makes you feel good when you can help a buddy out.

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Originally Posted by OlJim

A friend asked if I would take a look at the alignment on his 2015 Spyder. He stated he was not comfortable riding over 60 because of the unsteady ride. After alignment he took it on some twisties and he said it felt so good he took it on the turnpike and ran it up to 80 and held it there for awhile. Said it just sat there like it was supposed to, no twitch, no bobble, no weave. Says he is going to buy me a lobster dinner for the favor. Makes you feel good when you can help a buddy out.

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so how about some pics of your process?

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Originally Posted by ofdave

so how about some pics of your process?

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20 days and no reply with pics
I'm wondering if it is for real?

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Originally Posted by ofdave

20 days and no reply with pics
I'm wondering if it is for real?

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It's for real, I just have not had an occasion to do another alignment.
Here's a couple shots, first is one of the laser alignment tools, second is tool mounted to wheel using three magnets.

Thanks OlJim for the idea about the magnets! But I decided to buy enough magnets (at Lowes) so I didn't need a spacer. Then just bought a 6" X 18" piece of sheet steal and cut it in half. I also found a magnetic laser level on Amazon for cheap and bought 2. I found that my tow in was way too much. I had a feeling that was the case because if I leaned to one side, my Spyder would take off in the opposite direction. Anyway, made the adjustments and drives great now. Thanks again for the great idea about how to make our own laser alignment kit!

P.S. If anyone in South Florida wants to have their alignment checked, send me a message. It will only cost you a twelve pack of Miller Lite ))

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Originally Posted by STSScreaminDemon

Thanks OlJim for the idea about the magnets! But I decided to buy enough magnets (at Lowes)... how to make our own laser alignment kit!

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Great Pictures + basic tools / technique.

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Originally Posted by STSScreaminDemon

P.S. If anyone in South Florida wants to have their alignment checked, send me a message. It will only cost you a twelve pack of Miller Lite ))

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Certainly less than the $100 I charge, but then again, our equipment to do the task is a lot different.

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Originally Posted by STSScreaminDemon

Thanks OlJim for the idea about the magnets! But I decided to buy enough magnets (at Lowes) so I didn't need a spacer. Then just bought a 6" X 18" piece of sheet steal and cut it in half. I also found a magnetic laser level on Amazon for cheap and bought 2. I found that my tow in was way too much. I had a feeling that was the case because if I leaned to one side, my Spyder would take off in the opposite direction. Anyway, made the adjustments and drives great now. Thanks again for the great idea about how to make our own laser alignment kit!

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Did you find that the lug nuts were even all the way around??

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Originally Posted by SpyderAnn01

You won’t be the first DIY alignment that we have had to unscrew. See you in October.

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Do you know how to get ahold of the roto alignment folks?
I want to buy their system but they won’t return phone calls or emails???

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Originally Posted by QuadRAGIN

Do you know how to get ahold of the roto alignment folks?
I want to buy their system but they won’t return phone calls or emails???

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They reached out to me. I am debating if I want to buy their system or not.. It is a lot more than I expected.

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Originally Posted by STSScreaminDemon

P.S. If anyone in South Florida wants to have their alignment checked, send me a message. It will only cost you a twelve pack of Miller Lite ))

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where did you all get your specs from for toe in at the distance your target is past the front end?

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Originally Posted by QuadRAGIN

where did you all get your specs from for toe in at the distance your target is past the front end?

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You may not get a quick response from STSScreamingDemon, as the last time he visited the Forum was about 4.5 months ago... :dontknow:

Sorry for the delayed response. Yes as Peter mentioned, I've been off line for a while, but I'll try to answer your questions now.

Did you find that the lug nuts were even all the way around?? Yes, based on that the distance the sheet metal had all the way around the wheel was consistent. Obviously, a rotor tool might be a better option, but the lugs (if undamaged) are all exactly the same size and torqued to the same tightness.

where did you all get your specs from for toe in at the distance your target is past the front end? Please do your own research on the specs because I got them from someone else and cannot guarantee their accuracy. I don't remember exactly where I found the specs since I read many forums and watched many videos, but I used 2 mm of toe-in at the front wheel which translated to 10 mm at the back wheel since that is roughly 5 times the distance. Anyway, that worked well for me since I can still let go of my handlebars and track straight down the road (on a level surface and new tires of course). A huge improvement from where I started. I was able to confirm my suspicion with the laser that there was too much toe-in originally.

Let me know if I missed anything.

I used a primitive system using my rifle bore sighting tools as the laser and markings on the garage wall. I just did this to see if I thought there was any toe in. I didn’t adjust anything, I was just curious to see if there was likely to be any.

I think to do a proper alignment you would probably have to start with the rear wheel to get an accurate center line. Then with the bars straight adjust each front wheel to get the same toe in each side relative to the rear. I don’t think aligning the fronts without reference to the rear would be accurate enough. The rear is probably set up for belt centering and tolerances of the swing arm and chassis build and may not be assumed to be on the exact bike directional centerline. I’ve no idea how one would go about rigging a cheap device to include that data, nor where quite to start to adjust the rear to satisfy all the potential variables there.

So my guess is the equipment to get all three wheels in alignment relative to each other, probably while taking into account the rider’s weight (and the center of the self leveling rear on an RT Limited) would be one thing, but also including the experience of the operator to balance all these probably mutually interacting criteria would be another.

I can see why the equipment and the labor would not be trivial to do a proper job. If it were easy to access the rear wheel with a plumb line, that and a and a perimeter box might be ok, as some race car teams still use. But it doesn’t have 4 exposed wheels to accomplish this. I know from watching Isle of Man TT sidecar outfits preparing their geometry, it seems to be 50% measurement and 50% experience from years of trial and error. I have neither the suitable equipment, nor the experience, so beyond getting it more than better than it was, is likely to be an exercise in futility and with the potential to make things a whole lot worse not better.

I’ll just wait until I get the opportunity to get a professional to do it, as mine seems to handle OK for now.

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Originally Posted by mecsw500

...... I have neither the suitable equipment, nor the experience, so beyond getting it more than better than it was, is likely to be an exercise in futility and with the potential to make things a whole lot worse not better.

I’ll just wait until I get the opportunity to get a professional to do it, as mine seems to handle OK for now.

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:agree: Exactly, This is my feelings on the matter! ...... Bill....:thumbup:

Can any tire/alignment shop that uses lasers align a Spyder? Or does it require equipment that only a Can-Am dealer shop would have?