5 Attachment(s)
RT 1330 Spark plug changeout. Part 1
Here's a few photos and tips about the &%%$#^^ job of changing the spark plugs on the RT 1330. I was well into the process before I thought to take any photos. Sorry.
I had questions about the tightening torque so I went to the NGK web site. I found there that the design lifetime of the OEM plugs is 100,000 miles! They may fire more often in a 1330 than a Honda car engine, but still I don't see why BRP recommends changing them out at 28,000 miles. I don't expect to ever change mine again!!
First, consider removing the frunk. I can't say that it makes the job easier or not, other than it does get the air intake hose out of the way. I'd suggest you start the process and if it looks like removing the frunk will make it easier, then do it. I took the frunk off because I was changing the spark plugs and installing LED fog lights at the same time.
Remove the mirrors, middle side panels, and the acoustic panels. I had the headlight trim off also but I don't think you have to remove it to change the plugs. I replaced my LED headlights at the same time as the other work.
Disconnect the air intake hose from the first air box and remove the air cleaner.
Remove the screws that hold both air cleaner boxes in place.
Remove the support bar. There's one screw at each end. Turning it 90° will make it a bit easier to work loose from the air box tabs.
Remove the ring that holds the central air intake adapter to the air cleaner box. You have to reach through the air cleaner hole. On reinstall make sure the arrow points down. I used silicone spray to get the ring to turn and lock.
Now comes the toughy! The air cleaner box has to be pulled out and it is a TIGHT fit. Be careful, pull hard, and it'll come. It goes back in easier. Go figure!
I don't have a pic but the central air intake adapter (hose) is connected to the second air box with a plastic hose clamp. Cut it to remove the adapter.
Now go to the right side. You have to get the conglomeration of harnesses and cable out of the way. The harness connector block will slip loose off the frame. Cut cable ties as necessary. I disconnected several connectors to move the harnesses out of the way more.
Remove the clamp and hose shown here. The hose comes out with the manifold intake adapter hose.
5 Attachment(s)
RT 1330 Spark plug changeout. Part 2
Now remove the intake manifold adapter. Loosen the metal hose clamp and cut the plastic one. I replaced the plastic hose clamps with metal 4" hose clamps.
Now you can pull the secondary air box out. It comes out pretty easy. What you'll see then is the top of the engine!
I used a short flat blade screwdriver to disconnect the harness connectors from the ignition coils. The screwdriver lifts the lock tab and pushes the connector back. A lot easier than bare hands! Be careful to not drop the screwdriver! I did! It took me a 1/2 hour to recover it from on the bottom belly pan!
Make sure the top of the engine is clean! You don't want to take a chance on dropping crud into the cylinder! Remove the ignition coils. There are rubber seals at the top of the coils. One or two may stay stuck in the valve cover so make sure you get them back onto the coils. Anyway, don't lose any of them! Don't lose the screws. You may never find them again!
To remove the plugs I used a 3/8" drive spark plug socket and 2 3" extensions.
As you can see the plugs are down deep! After getting them loose I took the ratchet off and pulled the plug and tool up a bit and took off the upper extension. The headroom is limited so you aren't going to be able to use a longer extension.
When you install the new plugs be sure to use thermal grease on them. Then tighten them to something close to 15 newton-meters of torque. The service manual states 13.5 +/- 1.5 N-m. 15 was easy to see on my torque wrench. The manual refers to the torque as "Retaining Screw Torque". On the NGK web site I found the torque listed at around 10 N-m so I determined retaining screw meant the spark plug thread. Just another glitch in translating from French to English.
Everything goes back together in reverse order of taking it apart!
After you have the harnesses all connected and the air boxes back in you can start the engine. Be ready to be SHOCKED. With all the panels off the 1330 clatters as loudly as a diesel truck engine. I wondered if something was broken, but it wasn't!