Blended 5x40. Let me re-post them and try to make them larger. (you also can hold ctrl down and hit plus to make the screen larger...at least on my browser.
Here is the chart: Wouldn't let me post in edit mode...
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Blended 5x40. Let me re-post them and try to make them larger. (you also can hold ctrl down and hit plus to make the screen larger...at least on my browser.
Here is the chart: Wouldn't let me post in edit mode...
.........Doc please HELP us all out here , when you refer to the OIL you are using could state BRP Blended ...or....BRP F SYN ......because it makes a HUGH difference ....Thanks , some of us here probably follow this Thread on a daily basis ( it's that important )............................Mike :thumbup:..........Sorry we were both typing at the same time
Biggest I can make them. Hope that's better.
Doc, I hate to tell you this, but in my experience with testing various brands, both synthetic and non-synthetic, NO 10-40 oil, much less a 5-40, will make it to 4000 without shearing down to what you see on your test.
In order to hold the viscosity to a reasonable level at 4000 miles, it takes a quart of 20-50 added when the oil is changed. This may be a bit contrary to BRP instructions, but the vast majority of big bikes on the road call for 20-50, so I began adding a quart back when I had my '11. I am now doing the same with the 1330.
My current fill is Motul 7100, a pure ester synthetic, not the highly processed dino that many U.S. companies are allowed to call "synthetic". I have another 1200 miles to go before reaching 4K on the Motul and will then test it.
Unless it turns out to be the miracle oil, which I highly doubt, I plan on using a good quality synthetic like Amsoil and changing it every 4000 and the filter every other time. This seems the most reasonable way to go for me. For this coming winter I will leave off the 20-50 and go full 10-40 as it doesn't get all that frigid here in the NC. If the mood strikes me, I may put in Rotella T6, a 5-40 synthetic, rated
Jaso MA (or is it now MA2), knowing it will get changed at 3000 or shortly thereafter.
Generally speaking, the wider the range, the faster the viscosity shears down, and 5-40 has not held up as long in big bore bikes as a 10-40 or heavier oil. Nevertheless, its a decent oil, inexpensive, readily avail at Walmart. Seems to me like a good winter oil, suitable for the short haul.
Sorry for any mix up. It was 5x40 semi-synthetic BRP blended.
Uniflyer, I think you are right about replacing the filter only every other time. The drain and fill I did before the New England trip was without the filter change and I will now do the full oil change this week. I am thinking of using the same oil on this change (since I have gallon of it). The lab suggested that I send another sample to establish a wear baseline. I thought the metal PPM in the report was very good as some of that might have been from the clutch disk. I know it's filtered, but small particles might still have got through. I will tell you this, if you ran this oil 9,200 miles I doubt that it would have a 10 weight at that point. Not good for this awesome engine or it's longevity.
Hi Doc,
Thanks for posting. I had done mine (same oil) at 6000 miles and it also came in at 20w, so it looks like it did not shear any lower from 4000 to 6000.
I should have my results on the Mobil 1 10-40w full syn back this week. This oil has 6234 miles on it and we will see if it faired any better. Stay tuned.
:gaah:........Does anyone think BRP did or had any " SHEAR " testing done . Do they really expect the Ace engine to last until it's out of Warranty and they are off the HOOK so-to-speak ??????...........Their recommended 9300 miles between oil / filter changes appears to be way beyond what their ( BRP ) OIL can handle ..........JMHO....I am using FULL SYN Rotella and don't plan on more than 5000 at the extreme........................................Mik e :thumbup:
Just like the last oil thread all of this was hashed out in, I believe the key here is to use whatever approved oil puts a smile on your face and change it a bit more often.
Personally, I have no issues with the brp blend oil. It actually has a good reputation in the jetski world where the motors are run considerably harder than in the spyder, its fairly inexpensive, easy to come by, and the kits make it easy.
However, I'm doing 3k OCI like I have done in every other motorcycle I've owned.
I am getting ready to send off my second oil change sample (with filter change this time) sometime next week. Think I will use the same lab, but put the bottle into an envelope to see if it gets there quicker. This sample of BRP Blended 5x40 will have about 6,000 miles on it. Interested to see if that 20 weight sheer will hold up.
As Mike said, I am wondering if the 9300 mile interval is good enough to keep the engine intact through the warranty period, then quickly wear out shortly thereafter. it could also apply with the SE6 as I would think that the viscosity of the oil is critical for the wet clutch operation. In the automobile industry this is something I am seeing more and more. Consumerism. Planned wearout of parts. Quality seems to be less and less. Wheel bearings using China steel that they only warranty for 1 year.
Our best bet of getting the most out of our Roadsters is to keep each other informed so that we can figure out the best maintenance schedule and oil to use. I plan on putting 100K on my RTS, if possible, and them may still keep it to make parts runs in town. Of course, that will be several years down the road.