According to the Cheap Cycle Parts web site this morning they have the part in stock, cost $60.99.
According to the Cheap Cycle Parts web site this morning they have the part in stock, cost $60.99.
I ordered one from cheap cycle parts just now for a friend, hope someone can instruct how to install.Quote:
Originally Posted by JayBros
I may be all wet on this, but it might be possible that failures being heard of/experienced are the result of individual production lot manufacturing problems. As with the DESS module which allegedly couldn't be tested on the production line, the same may apply to the CAPS. The DESS one could more easily see because that unit is tied to an individual chipped key; however, with the CAPS, adding a testing system to the sensor production line when the production specs for it have already been established might have added a cost that Rotax/BRP was unwilling to accept.Quote:
Originally Posted by PMK
Mine failed on our 2015 ST and I found the replacement at Partzilla (74-420664049), but that was Sept 2020.
Just got an email from cheapcycleparts.com, the sensor is on back order/expected 01/31/2022Quote:
Originally Posted by thereverend
What year and model is this Spyder?Quote:
Originally Posted by thereverend
How many miles are on the Spyder?
Just trying to get the full information.
So moving forward, I would have a better
understanding of when I might have a
possible problem. ..:banghead:
I hope that this is not a normal.
Time will tell. ..:thumbup:
it"s a 2017 RT with 9000 miles
Myself, avoiding speculation and rumors will let you chase your idea down that rabbit hole.Quote:
Originally Posted by JayBros
All the best with it.
I will speculate that this not not a BRP or Rotax manufactured component, more likely it is made by Bosch and they are at fault. Similar to how auto manufacturers got drug in by Takata airbags.
....Quote:
Originally Posted by PMK
+1
Back to the original question re potential repair:
There are optical (such as Martek 440 used to replace dual points on my 1976 Honda CB750F) no longer common, hall-effect and magnetic coil sensors (also know as variable reluctance or magnetic pulse generators) for cam and crank position applications.
On Sportsters, the 2 wire magnetic is the most durable but not as clean a signal as the 3 wire hall-effect on Dynas.
Potential for failure is all related to heat (most are rated -40F to 300 F), which affects potting compound, coil insulation and properties of a permanent magnet.
It would be extremely difficult to remove potting compound, rewire a coil and/or replace a permanent magnet.
Just my 2 cents
Regarding JayBros suggestion about testing: The automation company that I retired from designed and built many automotive sensor production lines, both engine and brake sensors. All were tested, some not only ambient at also cold and hot. But proper resistance readings at the time of manufacture do not guarantee durability of cps or cpk sensors. That will be affected by the quality of the potting compound, the quality and thickness of the magnet wire insulation which is typically varnish and the quality of the permanent magnet.
Also affecting the sensor life is the maximum temperature of the sensor mounting location.
My Cam Postion Sensor was throwing codes all over the place and then I noticed some oil residue around the unit. Before tackling the job of pulling the pulley wheel for access to the CPS I doused the switch with brake cleaner. It has worked perfectly ever since. It's worth a try ! Just sayin' --------
Just a note here, The Cam Position sensor is on the side behind the oil filter, Not on the belt pulley side.Quote:
Originally Posted by Terraplane8Bob
It looks like there maybe a blow-by issue from the crankcase and not oil from the filter change.
Update. sensor found at a Canadian dealer in previous post above , was delivered to MN today, cost was $90 delivered
T.P.
Quote:
Originally Posted by T.P.
My thanks to T.P. for alerting me to my error! I mentioned spraying the "cam position sensor" when in fact I meant to say "the gear position [angle] sensor"! I hope my "Geezer" slip didn't send anyone off on a wild goose chase by pulling off their drive pulley's! OK --- Time to go take my medication!! Cheers!! Bob
Cam Position Sensor update as of today. The new BRP part # is 420664046, I have 1 extra with a mfg date of 13/01/2022 that I will list for sale.
This is the sensor for fixing the PO340 limp code
T.P.
You can sure tell that everyones Spyders are put away for the Winter, no new PO340 limp issues being reported.
T.P.
Actually, gorgeous weather, sunny and 80*, just minimal time to ride the Spyder with so many other motorcycle things happening. Spyder just pretty much sits in the garage, in the way. Oh well.Quote:
Originally Posted by T.P.
As of today I have updated my ad for the extra Cam Position sensor that I had,
SOLD to Jim Evans
T.P.
I received my part today, but the sensor is black rather than silver. Is it a cap over the sensor?
See my post #40, part#420664046 is all blackQuote:
Originally Posted by TraderHolmes
'
T.P.
:clap:
I got it replaced, and wrapped some electrical tape around the connection to keep oil out. Cleaned the old one with throttle body cleaner so I have a backup.
And if you look closely at the OE vs the updated replacement, the replacement is a one-piece unit where the OE is a metal component pressed into the Bakelite body... This is where mine had oil intrusion from as it gets past the press point and into the sensor body... Mine had oil all the way out to the connector!Quote:
Originally Posted by T.P.
As the OP I thought I would let everyone know that my sensor finally arrived in March. However, my old sensor stopped sending me the limp home codes. Don't know why. So now I have a spare. I never missed a ride though because the performance was never affected. Oh well.
I had NO idea that mine was causing a prob either, until one day, there I was zipping along at, well, let's just say it was AT LEAST the speed limit... ;-) I looked down for a time check and saw LIMP MODE scrolling. Yet, I am WAAAAY past the Limp Mode speed limit! Anyway, the bike runs PHENOMINALLY better with the new sensor! It pulls to redline faster and throttle response is greater than on the old one... Replace your sensor, you may just be surprised! ;-) It is literally a 10min job!Quote:
Originally Posted by Chappy KC
Over the years of owning three Spyders I have learned that the computer systems they use " over-lap " each other .... so the warning it flashes isn't necessarily real (?) ..... My G 08 GS very often would light-up like a Christmas tree - BUT would respond as if there were no warnings flashing .... go figure ..... JMHO .... good luck .... Mike :thumbup:Quote:
Originally Posted by Chappy KC