Nice video!
Note to anyone..if you don't have GPS mounted to the bars I recommend getting Elmers rubber glue and glue the small center rubber piece to the Bar or it will disappear shortly on 1st Ryde.
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Nice video!
Note to anyone..if you don't have GPS mounted to the bars I recommend getting Elmers rubber glue and glue the small center rubber piece to the Bar or it will disappear shortly on 1st Ryde.
Hey Bob, we had our local dealer install a chrome set but they were loose after installed. Could rock about 1/2 inch in each direction when pushing down or up when the adjustment assembly tight. The horizontal bolt was tight wiTh no play when you rocked the handlebars. I think the 4 bolts that hold the steering column tri axis plate in place may have been loose. They said is was a warranty issue but never got new tri axis bars. So we threaten to let everyone know how bad the dealership is. The owner got involved and after 3 months they put the olds ones back on, and refunded our money. The steering column tri axis plate bolts or the handlebar assembly horizontal bolt are the only things that I think could cause this problem. Your thought?
I bet it was the 4 bolts as that is the key part of any type of rocking of the handlebars!
I bet you a million bucks the old locktite in the holes of the column cause the mechanic to think they were torqued to spec yet were not even close!
I had to clean out the threads of the column holes to get a proper torque spec on the new bolts. BRP used a crap load of locktite on those probably for good reason but that left over locktite tended to fowl the new bolts going in.
It's a bummer to hear you had to go through all that and now don't have your nice handlebars :(
Some mechanics need to not be in such a hurry to make time constrints and actually look and see what is going on. This unfortunately causes me to have to do my own work. I almost don't trust anyone now to touch my Spyder....
My 14K service is coming up and that means checking the valves. I know I can do this myself but don't really want to. But I am SOOOOOO worried about letting someone else work on my bike, I am at a cross road....
Bob
I am aware that many that had the valves checked at 14K did not in fact need it. But I also know some that did!
BRP has not changed the spec on the 990. So if you have warranty for a while and don't have it done, if there is a failure there you wont be covered. I specifically called and asked them this. Again, they did not update that spec.
Bob
Great videos Bob. I found that if you remove the frunk latches first I could easily get to the two front bolts that hold the fairing assembly on. Took me about 1 1/2 hours to get to where I can install the triaxis handlebar. I used a 1/2 drive breaker bar with a 3/8ths drive adapter to break the old handlebar bolts loose. Was pretty smooth using your instructions. Again many thanks.
As a side note I wish BRP could reduce the size of the air intake box to get more air around the back cylinder. I may go to the JT air filter if the BRP fix for the heat issue is not that effective.
Glad they helped!
Yes after doing mine I realize that if I do it again, to remove the frunk latch first thing! As you saw that hung me up in a couple of places.
I may be helping a local guy here with his bars on a 2014 so the lessons I learned will be helpful the 2nd time around :)
Although I think the 2014's don't have the electronic latch. But it might be helpful to remove the manual latch itself anyway.....
Enjoy the new handlebars!
Bob
Your video was a great help. I could have not done without it. Thank you.
Hey Bob,
On page one of this post someone mentioned changing out the stock alum cover with a colored one and you mentioned it was quite a bit easier,
Did you do a video on that?
Steve
Nope but it should be pretty easy.
1) Remove the 4 bolts at the center. Be aware they will be extremely tight and you may not be able to do it with a L allen wrench. You may need a allen driver and socket wrench.
2) Under the handlebars are the 2 plastic covers. They will be held on to the top cover with 4 screws on each side. Remove those.
3) Just like in the video, remove the grips from the top cover.
3) Put the new cover on and reverse the steps.
Bottom line it's almost the same EXCEPT... you do not have to remove the entire fairing, and you do not have to mess with the key switch at all.
If you watch my videos through, you will see what I am talking about as basically those same steps have to be done.
Buy me lunch, come up here, and I will install it for you :)
Bob
Chula Vista.... man your right at the boarder! There is a RC airplane club there I have been to a few events at.
http://www.cvmrcc.com/
I am up in Stanton, Ca so that's a good 2.5 hours minimum as I recall.
Maybe I come down there and visit the RC club too...... I just don't know when I can do it... Let me think about a schedule.
Bob
I just had the dealer install my new set of Tri-Axis bars for my 15 RT-Ltd. Thank you as I watched the posted videos in advance to get a sense of what had to be done. For my dealer it was their first installation of the bars. They thought it was going to be a 2 hour or less job; I thought it was going to be 5 hours given what I learned from the videos. Bottom line: It was 5 hours and they appeared to use the same approach used by the poster of the videos. Also the new GPS mount is required. Unfortunately the actual mount is the only part required, yet the BRP kit includes an all new power supply and GPS connector that you don't need. Too bad that you can't just purchase the new bar mount alone. Now I get to experiment with positions on the bars and hopefully feel the difference by eliminating the pain between my shoulders. After some time I'll report my experience with the new bars.
Rob
Just wanted to say "thank you" for the time & effort you spent putting these (and all the other) videos together. I just bought a 2015 RT-S and had the dealer install the Tri Axis before we took possession. And as soon as we tried to adjust the height we knew we had a problem. If you turn the lower bolt, it just gets loose. Up to several inches of 'flop' if you keep turning it. Based on your videos, we know that's not right so back to the dealer it goes. But the videos did help us determine it wasn't anything WE were doing wrong. Just a bad install.
So thank again, plan on learning as much as I can from everyone on these boards.
Kathy
I'm bring back this old thread to say thanks to Finless because I have dealer installed (when I bought it) tri-axis bars on my 2014 and they have gotten progressively looser over time, so I now have to dive in and figure out what bolt or bolts or whatever have loosened up, so I found these videos useful. :thumbup:
So, also a note to other tri-axis owners that you should keep an eye on them because the dealer might not have been as diligent as they should have been during the installation process. (clean bolts, loctite, proper torque, etc)