shifting issues

My 2015 RTS SE6 shifts very smoothly when I leave my driveway when everything is cold. After it gets up to temp, it's still fine but you have to be a lot more careful about shift rpm to get a smooth shift. Anyone else notice this?

Also, it seems to me like there is a fair amount of slop in the drivetrain. Nothing serious and it can be avoided by being careful with the throttle & shifter. If you were in 4th gear at a steady speed in town and rolled off & back on the throttle, there is a noticeable "clunk".

Starting out from a stop light you start to move then feel a bit of a clunk in 1st gear.

Nothing that sounds or feels serious but it's irritating.

Has had both issues since new and nothing has changed or gotten worse in 7200 miles. Dealer thought is wasn't an issue.

I couldn't find a thread discussing the topic. Any thoughts?

I do know you should not roll back on the throttle when shifting. I have always had manuals so can't help much but have not heard anything on the cluncking on the new triples. First and reverse usually have a bit of a clunk being your engaging an idle transmission but nowhere else. Maybe more informed members have more to help you out....:thumbup:

FWIW, on my '14RT-S the ONLY clunk in the gear mechanism is the initial shift into 1st or Reverse after starting the engine. Starting from a dead stop in 1st gear there is no clunking nor is there any when rolling on or off the throttle in any gear. Yes, there is some slack in the drive train; you would have it if the Spyder was chain driven. If my dealer told me the clunking was "no problem" I'd be hunting for another dealer or, at minimum, a second opinion from another highly qualified dealer.

At what speeds (and rpm levels), are you shifting?

1st to 2nd & 2nd to 3rd at something over 2000 rpm, 3rd to 4th around 2750 and top two at 3000 or a little more. I usually don't move the throttle but there are certain places in the road where it seems to be smoother if you do just a bit. Up-shifting up a long grade into high gear for example. Like I said, it shifts so smooth when it's cold. I wonder why it isn't the same when it reaches operating temp. I may be expecting too much to think it shouldn't have any slack in the drivetrain at all. I tried an F3 with the manual trans and it didn't seem to have any play.

Mine is in for repair now with seemingly identical symptoms. Have you had it scanned recently? I would be curious if you have code P0810 in memory. I started thread "unknown DTC" with the same issue. Mine too was there since new but was worse this year.

Obviously, not normal in spite of the dealers "don't worry, that's normal" Find another dealer.

The fact that it's clunking after the gears are already engaged; That's something to investigate further. nojoke

You will find the sweet spot for shifting to be between 3000 and 3500 rpm. You have enough torque to shift lower (per the ECO mode suggestions) but I don't like it. I get no clunk and the shifts are smooth in the 3000 + range. Try the higher sweet spot range and you may be surprised. :yes:

Mine clunks engaging not after, rpm makes little difference. The tech said it is not normal.

With my 2014 RTL, it shifts smooth as butter when "cold" for a few minutes. After that, there is a noticeable hesitation/surge/clunk -- whatever -- when shifting. I try to maintain constant throttle. I've experimented shifting between about 2700 to 4000 rpm to find a "sweet spot" but that's been very elusive. When I slow down (gradually) for a stop light, let off the throttle and apply the brakes, there almost always is a surge between automatic downshifts. I've mentioned this to my dealer, but they claim my Spyder is one of the smoothest ones they've ever seen! Go figure.

I only hear the cluck when I first put it in gear... My issue with shifting is that coming from a sport bike Honda CBR600 RR I listen for the rev of the engine adm always revved high... I find myself switching gears at about 5000 or 6000 rpms.. It sounds and feels right but could be wrong on the F3s

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Originally Posted by etaoin

With my 2014 RTL, it shifts smooth as butter when "cold" for a few minutes. After that, there is a noticeable hesitation/surge/clunk -- whatever -- when shifting. I try to maintain constant throttle. I've experimented shifting between about 2700 to 4000 rpm to find a "sweet spot" but that's been very elusive. When I slow down (gradually) for a stop light, let off the throttle and apply the brakes, there almost always is a surge between automatic downshifts. I've mentioned this to my dealer, but they claim my Spyder is one of the smoothest ones they've ever seen! Go figure.

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That is exactly what mine does, the 2016 demo I rode was smooth then entire 100 miles I drove it. Mine is a 2015 RTs which is receiving a new hydraulic housing assembly this week, fingers crossed.

No codes. That was checked last week.

It's hard to describe as there are really three issues.

1. When it's cold, it shifts as smooth as a mouse peeing on cotton. When it warms up, it's not bad, just more fussy about the shifting. Sometimes it's very smooth and sometimes there is a noticeable hesitation during the shift. I don't worry too much about this as it makes a difference if you are going up a hill, have a passenger and shifting at the right rpm for the conditions etc. Not a big issue, just curious why it is soooo smooth when cold. Every shift is perfect until it gets warmed up.

2. The "clunk" when going into 1st or reverse is normal. I get that. However, when I take off from a stoplight, it takes off smoothly but before you get 10 or 15 feet, you feel a small "bump" in the drive train. Not another clunk, just something that feels like something caught up with something. Only happens in 1st gear during normal takeoff. Very hard to describe, just something that is there and always has been.

3. Slop in the drivetrain. If you are driving at a steady speed in any gear and roll off and back on the throttle without shifting, you get a clank, clank noise as the slack is taken up. I understand there is some on a belt driven machine but it seems like a lot to me.

I haven't driven another Spyder RT so I don't know if these quirks are normal or not. In defense of my dealer, they have only been asked by email slop in the drivetrain and he said some is normal.

My hope is that someone here that has had similar concerns can help me point the dealer in the right direction.

Either that or tell me to shut up and drive...

Thanks folks..

Belt tension might account for some of the "slop"...
Oil levels can affect shift quality.
But beyond that... :dontknow:

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Originally Posted by Harmony 44

That is exactly what mine does, the 2016 demo I rode was smooth then entire 100 miles I drove it. Mine is a 2015 RTs which is receiving a new hydraulic housing assembly this week, fingers crossed.

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I'd be interested to know if that fixed anything. Thanks.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Harmony 44

Mine is in for repair now with seemingly identical symptoms. Have you had it scanned recently? I would be curious if you have code P0810 in memory. I started thread "unknown DTC" with the same issue. Mine too was there since new but was worse this year.

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I'd be interested to know if yours is better when you get it back. Thanks.

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Originally Posted by TimC

I'd be interested to know if yours is better when you get it back. Thanks.

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Hope to have it back this weekend.

At a guess, I'd say that you are probably worrying about something that's just the nature of the beast!! Still, there are some things that could (might?) be an issue - I've never encountered one of these without already knowing it's there, so I really can't relate to the riding feel/symptoms from a 'not knowing' diagnosis point of view; but from what you describe & what I've felt when test riding a belt drive bike with this issue, I really think that it might just be worth your while to (carefully & tooth by tooth) check the teeth of the drive belt for damage or loss.

For what it's worth, that 'bump' in first at slow speeds &/or as you start to move off is one of the symptoms you get warned to watch out for on bikes running damaged but not broken belt drives; & the way you describe it certainly does sound like you might have some tooth damage or even possibly a couple or a few teeth missing! And if you do happen to have a couple of teeth missing from the drive belt, one of the symptoms to watch for there is the drive 'lurching' immediately after changing gears or as releasing the clutch.... could that be your 'clunk'? Also, if you're minus a couple/few teeth in one spot on the drive belt, backing off & then reapplying the power will generally tend to give you the feeling of 'a bit of slack' in the driveline as the drive belt skips over the gap in the teeth & then catches up with drive delivery - sound like a familiar feeling?? The noise, got nothing really on that; & considering that I'm definitely not saying this is a cut & dried answer to all your problems, but it does sound suspiciously like the things we are warned to watch for & what I've experienced when test riding bikes with a couple/few teeth missing from the drive belt.... :shocked:

Just sayin' ;)

If not using full synthetic that will help but not completely eliminate.
Harley's also klunk, it's the nature of the beast.
Personally, I don't mind it at all as its an affirmation that gears were switched.

AJ

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Originally Posted by TimC

My 2015 RTS SE6 shifts very smoothly when I leave my driveway when everything is cold. After it gets up to temp, it's still fine but you have to be a lot more careful about shift rpm to get a smooth shift. Anyone else notice this?

Also, it seems to me like there is a fair amount of slop in the drivetrain. Nothing serious and it can be avoided by being careful with the throttle & shifter. If you were in 4th gear at a steady speed in town and rolled off & back on the throttle, there is a noticeable "clunk".

Starting out from a stop light you start to move then feel a bit of a clunk in 1st gear.

Nothing that sounds or feels serious but it's irritating.

Has had both issues since new and nothing has changed or gotten worse in 7200 miles. Dealer thought is wasn't an issue.

I couldn't find a thread discussing the topic. Any thoughts?

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Peter Aawen

At a guess, I'd say that you are probably worrying about something that's just the nature of the beast!! Still, there are some things that could (might?) be an issue - I've never encountered one of these without already knowing it's there, so I really can't relate to the riding feel/symptoms from a 'not knowing' diagnosis point of view; but from what you describe & what I've felt when test riding a belt drive bike with this issue, I really think that it might just be worth your while to (carefully & tooth by tooth) check the teeth of the drive belt for damage or loss.

For what it's worth, that 'bump' in first at slow speeds &/or as you start to move off is one of the symptoms you get warned to watch out for on bikes running damaged but not broken belt drives; & the way you describe it certainly does sound like you might have some tooth damage or even possibly a couple or a few teeth missing! And if you do happen to have a couple of teeth missing from the drive belt, one of the symptoms to watch for there is the drive 'lurching' immediately after changing gears or as releasing the clutch.... could that be your 'clunk'? Also, if you're minus a couple/few teeth in one spot on the drive belt, backing off & then reapplying the power will generally tend to give you the feeling of 'a bit of slack' in the driveline as the drive belt skips over the gap in the teeth & then catches up with drive delivery - sound like a familiar feeling?? The noise, got nothing really on that; & considering that I'm definitely not saying this is a cut & dried answer to all your problems, but it does sound suspiciously like the things we are warned to watch for & what I've experienced when test riding bikes with a couple/few teeth missing from the drive belt.... :shocked:

Just sayin' ;)

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I too can't speak to Tim's specific issues other than the shift quality is much like mine. My issue was picked up at the dealer when they performed the first service and road tested it. I just thought it was normal because it was like that from day one, but the tech said it was "DEFINITELY NOT NORMAL", BRP said to replace the part per the DTC (P0810). Hopefully I'll know more this weekend.

Picked it up Friday afternoon and rode it 300 miles today, I would say it is normal now. It slips into gear very smoothly at 2700 rpm and a slight pause over 3000. Hard acceleration leads to abrupt shifts, but noting like it was before. As far as driveline backlash, yes it is noticeable now that I am paying attention, but only if I abruptly chop the throttle and then accelerate hard.