2011 RSS CHECK TRANS scroll

So, I recently became a member of the spyder world. I have a 2011 RSS. I read the basics. Don't bog the motor. shift slightly higher its not a harley. so on and so forth. More recently, intermittently, I get CHECK TRANS message on the screen and the typical engine silhouette will turn on. It seems like a combination of other members complaints. I was quite wary of the semi auto trans to begin with, I hope it isn't anything serious. There doesn't appear to be any rhyme or reason to what triggers it. For example, few times wouldn't shift from N to 1 at the start. Then between various gears while riding wouldn't go from 2-3 or 3-4 or so on. Usually will go away then most of the ride with be 100% fine. The gentleman I bought it from didn't disclose any issues and I truly feel this is something new. I don't tap the button, I hold it until the shift is confirmed. Is there a way to reset the "computer" with like a series of key turns? Could be be from low oil level? Is this step one? The other thing I should mention, a VERY nice quality set of adjustable handlebar risers and grips were installed sometime during his ownership. Does sometimes changing these types of parts mess with switches, are they delicate? The two can am dealers in my area are quite far away from me in the Chicagoland area. So before get nuts and run to them, is there any sort of steps I can perform myself to troubleshoot something like this?
As I mentioned, it seems to be a combination of complaints from other forum members that triggered this message for them. Furthermore, don't want to give the shop 100$ for them to go, well turn the key on and off twice and you should be good... Input would be greatly appreciate since Im new to the spider. Thank you all in advance.

Here it is...
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/a...d=113101&stc=1

The clutch is slipping. So either the wrong oil used or the clutch is toast. Sorry.

Not sure it'll be the answer for you, but for ANY gear change or transmission problems, check your oil level first!! The engine, clutch, & transmission share the same oil, & these things do tend to use a little (it's a feature of the design & use, not usually anything to worry about)

Make sure you use the correct 'oil level check' method, it is outlined in the manual & has been discussed here elsewhere at length so I won't repeat it again; basically, because of the 'remote oil reservoir' design, if you use the wrong 'check' method you can get a significantly wrong idea of how much oil you need to add, and you really don't want to over-fill these things with oil... if you do over-fill, you can turn your warning lights into flashing strobe lights & may cause all sorts of difficulties with clutch issues, selecting & changing gears, & if you've over-filled by a great enough margin, you can even stop the engine running in an expensive way!!

So check your oil level (using the correct method) first! :thumbup:

:welcome: The transmission will act like you described if you have low oil level. The :ani29: is particular about how the oil is checked. Follow the instructions above and hopefully adding a bit of oil will be the cure to your issues.

Do you by chance have HID headlights?

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Originally Posted by Baron

So, I recently became a member of the spyder world. I have a 2011 RSS. I read the basics. Don't bog the motor. shift slightly higher its not a harley. so on and so forth. More recently, intermittently, I get CHECK TRANS message on the screen and the typical engine silhouette will turn on. It seems like a combination of other members complaints. I was quite wary of the semi auto trans to begin with, I hope it isn't anything serious. There doesn't appear to be any rhyme or reason to what triggers it. For example, few times wouldn't shift from N to 1 at the start. Then between various gears while riding wouldn't go from 2-3 or 3-4 or so on. Usually will go away then most of the ride with be 100% fine. The gentleman I bought it from didn't disclose any issues and I truly feel this is something new. I don't tap the button, I hold it until the shift is confirmed. Is there a way to reset the "computer" with like a series of key turns? Could be be from low oil level? Is this step one? The other thing I should mention, a VERY nice quality set of adjustable handlebar risers and grips were installed sometime during his ownership. Does sometimes changing these types of parts mess with switches, are they delicate? The two can am dealers in my area are quite far away from me in the Chicagoland area. So before get nuts and run to them, is there any sort of steps I can perform myself to troubleshoot something like this?
As I mentioned, it seems to be a combination of complaints from other forum members that triggered this message for them. Furthermore, don't want to give the shop 100$ for them to go, well turn the key on and off twice and you should be good... Input would be greatly appreciate since Im new to the spider. Thank you all in advance.

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you don't have to hold the + till it shifts. Just get it to 5k or higher & stab it.

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Originally Posted by Tazzel

Do you by chance have HID headlights?

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I believe they are stock headlights.

I will check the oil. Thank you.

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Originally Posted by billybovine

The clutch is slipping. So either the wrong oil used or the clutch is toast. Sorry.

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So I the oil was SLIGHTLY less than the FULL line. (this is after checking it after running/warm etc) added some oil. I took it for a spin. Shifted like butter. Then, all of a sudden, again intermittent missing or sluggish shifts after positively engaging the + shift button. I shifted at 4-5K under various throttle loads. I must say it seemed worse when the engine was working so to speak rather than shifting at rpm but not under acceleration if that makes sense. I KNOW if I call my local shop ill get the well you have to bring it in etc etc etc. I was hoping for some real HUMAN input. Any thoughts on best and worse case scenarios and how much $$$ in your opinions...

Oh and original CAN AM SPYDER BRP OIL was used for sure. 4 stroke synthetic summer blend.
THANK YOU ALL

I will take back my slipping clutch comment because of the extra symptoms.

When was the last oil and filter change done? In particular the HCM filter (Trans).
Has the HCM filter been upgraded to the larger steel reinforced filter? Look for the warning label on the oil tank.
When stopped and it fails to shift from neutral to 1st or reverse. Does the engine seem to surge? Engine rpm goes to about 2000 rpm up to 3 times.

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Originally Posted by billybovine

I will take back my slipping clutch comment because of the extra symptoms.

When was the last oil and filter change done? In particular the HCM filter (Trans).
Has the HCM filter been upgraded to the larger steel reinforced filter? Look for the warning label on the oil tank.
When stopped and it fails to shift from neutral to 1st or reverse. Does the engine seem to surge? Engine rpm goes to about 2000 rpm up to 3 times.

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Whenever it failed from a complete stop from N to 1, absolutely nothing happened. You'd hit the + then nothing. Then you'd get the check transmission message. Let's say it doesn't shift properly between 3-4 Gear. It does everything to from a little surge then a shift occurs. Then you'll get the message. Or you hit + nothing happens. The gear fails to change then you get the check trans message. Then often shifts perfectly fine. Even under robust acceleration at times. However, when slowing and it downshifts. It does seem to surge ALWAYS.. It's almost like you blip a throttle when downshifting a car. When I wAtch YouTube. Videos. Spyders don't seem to do that. But, also maybe I'm not hearing that occur on a recorded clip. So not sure that is normal either. To my understanding it was changed at about the 3000 mile mark. I'd be more than happy to take it for a professional oil change...
It's odd that it seems like there's no set pattern to when it occurs. Sometimes shifts perfectly. What you think? I really appreciate your time. Very kind of you.

Have HMF exhaust and fuel controller. Could that be screwing with the computer?

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Originally Posted by Baron

Whenever it failed from a complete stop from N to 1, absolutely nothing happened. You'd hit the + then nothing. Then you'd get the check transmission message. Let's say it doesn't shift properly between 3-4 Gear. It does everything to from a little surge then a shift occurs. Then you'll get the message. Or you hit + nothing happens. The gear fails to change then you get the check trans message. Then often shifts perfectly fine. Even under robust acceleration at times. However, when slowing and it downshifts. It does seem to surge ALWAYS.. It's almost like you blip a throttle when downshifting a car. When I wAtch YouTube. Videos. Spyders don't seem to do that. But, also maybe I'm not hearing that occur on a recorded clip. So not sure that is normal either. To my understanding it was changed at about the 3000 mile mark. I'd be more than happy to take it for a professional oil change...
It's odd that it seems like there's no set pattern to when it occurs. Sometimes shifts perfectly. What you think? I really appreciate your time. Very kind of you.

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When it struggles to shift gears because of mechanical or hydraulic problem. It is programed to blip the throttle to shift the gears in the gearbox and try again. Up to 3 times. Since it is not doing that. That leads me to think it is electrical. The scrolling trans message reinforces that line of thinking.

So is the blipper solenoid working or is it somewhere else?

You will need to pull the codes when the trans message scrolls.

* With ignition switch on (or engine running) press MODE button repeatedly until "engine hours" (total hours) shows on display.* Press and hold MODE button while pushing the "flash high beams" button five times within 2 seconds.
* If there are no active faults "No Active Fault Code" will be displayed.
* If there is an active fault, an alphanumeric code will be displayed.
* If there is more than one active code, you may press MODE to cycle through them.

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Originally Posted by Baron

Have HMF exhaust and fuel controller. Could that be screwing with the computer?

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Exhaust will have nothing to do with it. Fuel controller I don't think will. Aftermarket HIDs can very likely do it. BRP HIDs no.

Baron,

I'm currently running into this issue as well. I am still currently researching. But it seems to intermittently happen when I do a quick acceleration and let the RPMs get between 6500 to 7000 (in first or 2nd gear). Since yesterday I concentrated on staying within the 5500 and 6000 rpms and no more check transmission fault.


billybovine,

The only fault code that shows is 'check transmission'. It never provides a numeric fault code. I do the Hr mode+ high beam check and it still only shows the 'check transmission' with no numeric code.

When I turn the bike off and back on the error code is gone and it shows 'no active fault code' and rides fine.

Ahh. So that's why someone asked about the headlights. I know it has nice LED signals along with extended mirrors to accommodate the big windscreen. And LED lights for the license plate frame that's recessed into the rear little "fender" over the back tire. I know any part wasn't skimped on and no Taiwan knock offs. But who knows. Um, the headlights seem to function well, but I really think they're stock based on the hue of the lift they emit. I'll definitely try and pull those codes. Thanks all. You're the best.

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Originally Posted by billybovine

When it struggles to shift gears because of mechanical or hydraulic problem.

* With ignition switch on (or engine running) press MODE button repeatedly until "engine hours" (total hours) shows on display.* Press and hold MODE button while pushing the "flash high beams" button five times within 2 seconds.
* If there are no active faults "No Active Fault Code" will be displayed.
* If there is an active fault, an alphanumeric code will be displayed.
* If there is more than one active code, you may press MODE to cycle through them.

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So, I tried that out. The message that appeared was: NO ACTIVE FAULT CODES

bummer since it has 4000 miles. Apparently a woman rode it. Lol.

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Originally Posted by Baron

So, I tried that out. The message that appeared was: NO ACTIVE FAULT CODES

bummer since it has 4000 miles. Apparently a woman rode it. Lol.

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When fault codes status changes from active to occured. You can no longer see them using this method. The dealer can see the faults that have occured using their equipment.

So wait until the next time you have a problem. Then retrieve the codes. Do not turn it off. Do not wait until later.

I have a check transmission scrolling on my 2012 RSS too. I took it to the dealer last week and I was told it was a shifting solenoid. They should be ordering the part tomorrow. I was driving on the highway and I had the Neutral and Reverse lights blinking while the text was scrolling. :yikes: Just get it looked at and they can tell you what's wrong or they will contact BRP for further assistance.