I have been having a problem with my brake lights staying on after I release the pedal on my '13 ST-S. The problem seems to be happening more and more often. Is this a sign of a faulty brake light switch?
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I have been having a problem with my brake lights staying on after I release the pedal on my '13 ST-S. The problem seems to be happening more and more often. Is this a sign of a faulty brake light switch?
Your right sounds the same as mine. Mine conveniently stuck on in the parking lot at BRP when I was there for the factory tour. The head tech fellow said they were having trouble with dirt getting into some of the switches. Told me to have my dealer replace the switch so that is what I did. All fixed.
I had to have my switch replaced last year.
I noticed on two occasions that my brake light was on after I shut down. I depressed the brake pedal and light went out. I have 190 miles total on the bike so sounds like the same issue.
I contacted my dealer today about the brake light switch and asked him to order one and then call me when it comes in. He called back a few minutes later and said I would have to leave it for a day or two because they might have to replace the "plate" as well as the switch. The plate? Has anyone heard of this????
They only replaced the switch on my ST Limited.
It could be a bad switch or crud preventing the brake from releasing completely. The crud issue happens a lot here. A tooth brush or similar and a spray bottle for water on the rear mechanism will clean out any crud.
If that don't work, plan B (the dealer).
They only replaced the switch on mine as well. I took a look at the parts diagram and I see the switch is pop riveted on. Maybe they are expecting the tech to have a runaway drill bit! ;)
I took my ST-S to my dealer today for the brake light sticking. When I got there he showed me a dealer bulletin that explained the switch could be bad due to dirt or crud getting in it OR the plate it is attached to could be warped. Now I know why the dealer suggested I leave it . It might not be just the switch, but the plate being warped also. Weird!
the notice for the brake light issue ...
It is not a service bulletin or recall .. its a TSN or something like that...
FYI
Earl
I had the same problem. It continued to get worse until eventually it messed with the electronics. It went into limp mode on the interstate. It took 2 weeks to get mine back. First they ordered the switch then found out it wouldn't fit because mine was manufactured during a certain time period. They ordered the new switch and found out it wouldn't fit on the old bracket so they had to order a new bracket. The rivets that go on the bracket were on back order so they had to modify that to be careful not to split the new bracket. So far so good.
taking mine in this Saturday to get fixed. it stays on unless I lift the brake peddle.
the dealer ask for the mfg date (so they know which parts they needed).
I had the same problem. Got out of work and the battery was dead. The dealer told me the rod to the master cylinder was out of adjustment and this isn't covered by warranty. Sounds like some bull after reading other comments. They adjusted it for free anyway but it still sticks. I tap my foot on the pedal and it goes out but one of these days I'll forget. I'll take it back when riding season is close to an end.
Knowing the problems here can cause cruise control issues...Our 2014 RTs cruise control started acting up on 9.1.14. The system would not "set". While riding I turn the cruise off, then on, several times. Still inop. With the system on, running say 65 mph, I kind of bounced the brake pedal with my foot without applying the brakes. Hit set and it started working.
After a look in the parts book, it seems the 2013 and 2014 share the same parts.
Need to get a good look at it, and see what is failing. I have not had it apart, but dirt inside the switch seems odd as you would expect a sealed and waterproof switch. The switch does seem unprotected from water spray when riding in the rain. Does anyone know if this is a sealed switch?
PK
Supernaut is yours an ST Spyder? . If so have your dealer look for the tech notice. Not recall or tsb.
Our 2013 is doing it also and started at 9000 miles. Drive 2 hrs to the dealer and they could not make it do it. Charged me 50 bucks for diagnostics. The next day, I recorded it doing it and drove it back down to the dealer. They replaced the switch and we did a 2800 mile ride with no issues. Now at 14000 miles it stays on all the time unless we pull up on the brake. Dealer said BRP said to bring it back in to hook up to the computer???? Really??? FIX our bike BRP! Too many folks with the same issue!
I had this issue on my 2013 STS. The dealer fixed it by cutting down the bumper that the pedal hits when not being operated. He told me this was an official fix.
When this was happening to my 13 StL the cruise wouldn't work. That's how I always knew when the brake light was staying on. It also caused it to go into limp mode. The dealer said the computer thought I was driving with the brake on. This happened twice on the interstate. It was scary. After I turned it off for a few minutes it started again and was fine for awhile. Hopefully they've got it fixed now.
Supernaut is yours an ST Spyder? . If so have your dealer look for the tech notice. Not recall or tsb.
Yes, a 2013 ST Spyder. I will definitely ask about the tech notice. Thanks.
I have also had problems with my cruise control. Makes sense if the brake switch sticks the cruise won't work.
OK my dealers fix, above, isn't working!
24 hours of purchasing my ST, my spyder wouldn't start when I was attempting to go to lunch after driving it all morning. Turns out the brake light was sticking on and didn't realize it and this caused the battery to die. Called the dealer and they came out to jumped it, took it back to the dealer and found the problem with the switch. It took them 45 minutes to fix and haven't had the problem since.
Known issue but the dealer can fix that pretty quick.
the dealer will need to know WHEN your Spyder ST (not RT) was mfg. this tells them if they replace the rear brake switch or the switch and plate. it needs a switch and a longer rivit for the fix. they did not have the required mounting rivit in so I have to bring back. in the mean time they just bent the plate back so it stays off and then plugged in and reset the computer so I have my cruise control again!
I went 2 hr ride to dealer mostly highway with no cruise controls !!! also on way in it went into LIMP mode 2 times both VSS errors. the first limp mode capped me at 70 mph (that i was going at). I just never slowed down so after I got to my exit I restarted and was able to go another 15 mins this time it capped me at 50 mph so I pulled over and restarted.
I took my '13 ST to the dealer because my light was sticking as well. They adjusted the light only to find the spring allowing the foot brake to return was not strong enough. If we engaged the brake and let off on it so it snapped back, the light would turn off. If we "milked" it back to the off position, it would stay on.
so, it turned out the spring was too weak, problem solved.
I would still have them look up the tech notice. I bet that the spring is making up for a bad break light switch.Quote:
Originally Posted by pwpalmbay