Can we talk oil?

Having not yet taken delivery, I don't have any tech info at all. So, can somebody tell me this; does Spyder come delivered with synthetic or petroleum oil? What weight is recommended for the tranny and what is the API code for it?
Do we know anything about the oil filter? What micron filtration level does it have? What does it use as the filtration media?
I've used Amsoil synthetic oils in my Harleys and all other vehicles since 1998. Loved it so much I became a dealer and work only within the motorcycle industry. I need to know this about the Spyder so I can properly advise owners on useage.
Thanks fo your help!
Jim S.
Royal Palm Beach, FL
PS - I saw the post from the new owner about getting his Spyder, then discovering that he was at least a quart low - bad service prep. But he'd have been OK if he had driven it only a quart low IF it was running a good quality synthetic. It's certainly not recommended procedure, but the synthetic would have still provided the engine all the protection it needed for a little 70 mile drive.

I checked my oil level today. Getting the middle left panel off was not a big problem, but I could do it faster on the second run. The dipstick showed oil at about midway up the dipstick. This was a cold engine. The manual says to have the
bike at operating temp. I rode it a couple of miles until the temp was up on the scale and checked it again. The oil on the dipstick was frothy with bubbles in it. It was also higher on the dipstick. After waiting a few minutes more, the froth was almost gone, and a few minutes later it was all gone and the oil level was at the full mark. From the looks of the oil reservoir, it appeared that the oil was taken from the bottom of the resovoir tank and returned through a hose at te top of the reservoir. I am wondering if the oil coming in from the top and then falling down into the reservoir would cause the oil to be frothy on the stick. I felt the frothy oil and it did not feel like it was water on the stick. The oil film was smooth and unbroken.

I have never used synthetic oil before so I don't know any of its properties. Any comments would be greatly appreciated.

Jack H.

I always use Mobil 1 V-Twin or the racing oil if I can find it in all my bikes. Dealer did first oil change.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Spyderman

I always use Mobil 1 V-Twin or the racing oil if I can find it in all my bikes. Dealer did first oil change.

---

The Spyder calls for 5-40W oil. I don't think Mobil 1 MC oil has anything in that range ??

The racing oil is 10w-40. The W actually stands for winter rating and since I am in Florida, the 10w would be fine for the Spyder.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by barb36jack31

I checked my oil level today. Getting the middle left panel off was not a big problem, but I could do it faster on the second run. The dipstick showed oil at about midway up the dipstick. This was a cold engine. The manual says to have the
bike at operating temp. I rode it a couple of miles until the temp was up on the scale and checked it again. The oil on the dipstick was frothy with bubbles in it. It was also higher on the dipstick. After waiting a few minutes more, the froth was almost gone, and a few minutes later it was all gone and the oil level was at the full mark. From the looks of the oil reservoir, it appeared that the oil was taken from the bottom of the resovoir tank and returned through a hose at te top of the reservoir. I am wondering if the oil coming in from the top and then falling down into the reservoir would cause the oil to be frothy on the stick. I felt the frothy oil and it did not feel like it was water on the stick. The oil film was smooth and unbroken.

I have never used synthetic oil before so I don't know any of its properties. Any comments would be greatly appreciated.

Jack H.

---

My Spyder didn't show any oil on the dipstick when cold or warm. The dealer sent me a quart of BRP synthetic oil and I poured half of it in the oil tank. When cold the added oil brought the level almost up to the "add" oil mark. After starting it and checking it again when hot, the oil was foamy with bubbles and right up to the full mark. I took out a few ounces and started it again, then shut her down and checked the oil again. Now it was 1/2 way between full and add but had no bubbles in it. The Sea-doo watercraft with 4 stroke Rotax engines run best with the oil level at mid dipstick....probably the same holds true for the Spyder. At any rate, the oil should not be foaming. That is a sign of over full. It's amazing how a little oil can make such a big difference when reading the dipstick.

Richard

Hello!!!

If anybody bothered to read the manual they would have read that it takes 5-W40 synthetic...

2faston3

OK, so it's a 5W-40 weight, or a 10W-40 for racing. I don't get the difference here. I've been a dealer for Amsoil synthetics specializing in motorcycle oils for nearly 10 years, and this just doesn't make sense to me. Someone mentioned that the "5" or the "10" in these designations refers to cold weather performance, and that's correct. That said, I'll be using the 10W-40 weight.
Why?
Well, first of all, in order for the cold weather capacity differential to even began to kick in I'd have to be cranking and riding the Spyder in under 20 degree weather. Actually, somewhat lower than that before any real difference would be of a matter. Now, I don't do a lot of open riding when the weather is below 20 degrees. Do you? Really? Snowmobiles excepted, of course. So, 10W-40 makes it all good to go.
Finding it? This will sound self-serving, I know, but if you check the facts, you'll see the truth of the old saying "it ain't braggin' if it's true." Amsoil makes a 10W-40 full synthetic motorcycle specific oil that is the best your money can buy. Who says so? Independant testing of many different motorcycle oils by a materials testing company called American Society of Testing Materials (ASTM). You can check that out on the web, or just go to my website at www.lubedealer.com/biker
It costs about $9.50 a quart and will be dropshipped to your doorstep in about 3 business days. Freight is additional, so you're actually gonna pay about $10.50 per quart. I saw Moibil 1 at a dealer recently priced at $13.00 a quart! You can throw money away if you want, but that is ridiculous. Change interval is far longer than you will take it - 10,000 miles. Me, I change oil every 5000, filter at 2500. There is NO loss of engine protection due to oil performance at that change interval level. Changing more often than that is just throwing money on the ground.
BTW, don't let any dealer fool you with the old bit about using an oil different from what the manual recommends will void the warranty. Federal law requires a dealer to supply FREE OF CHARGE any brand-specific oil to the customer if they want to make it a warranty issue. Know any dealers that give the stuff away? No, I don't either. If the oil is of proper weight and API specifications, the warranty is unaffected. Moss-Magnuson Act (I may have misspelled that) lays all this out. Harley dealers used to use that (and other) things to discourage the use of synthetics. Until they got some in a bottle with H-D logo on it and sold off their shelves, that is. All arguments against use then magically ended. I fought many a long and sometimes heated battle with parts managers and wrenches about that and other myths in the late 1990's and early 2000's. The oil wars were interesting, but I'm glad that finally, it has been decided - a synthetic is the very best you can use, V-Twin, air cooled, liquid cooled, anything you have simply benefits for the synthetic oil properties. And it's "green" - more environmentally friendly!
Bottom line .. use a full synthetic as recommended, know that a 10W-40 weight is good for all purpose riding, and buy either Amsoil or Mobil 1. Do some research and you'll know why. Not all synthetics are created equal, not by a long shot.
As I have always said, you'll run "Cooler, Cleaner, Longer, and Stronger!"
Questions? E-mail me. I love to talk about this stuff : Jim@SpyderRyder.org

Yes $10.50 at a dealer but Mobil 1 V-twin Synthetic can be picked up at any Walmart for about $8.50 a quart

I have yet to see the Mobil 1 motorcycle oil in any of the Walmarts here in Central Florida...

It is usually by the Helmets, not by the reg oil isle.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Spyderman

The racing oil is 10w-40. The W actually stands for winter rating and since I am in Florida, the 10w would be fine for the Spyder.

---

:agree: Most people just look at the weight Suggested by the manufacture which may be at the north pole LOL, it's also important to pick the weight according to you region far as what temperature your gonna be riding In :bigthumbsup: Most oil charts show temp graphs to simplify this.

10w-40 should work great in just about all Motors ,in areas that don't see snow ;D

That 5w is for Extremely cold starts IMHO

So when I change my oil on my cars I take the drain oil to a parts shop for recycling, but that is petroleum oil.

What do you all do with your drain oil when you use synthetic?

Guys,

The recommended oil weight is 5-W-40, synthetic because of it's long chain molecules is extemely suited to gear/engine oil engines. The gearing has a tendancy to cut the oil (chain) and shorten it making it less slippery. Hence the longer the chain the longer it will do it's job well.

The engine was designed for this (5W40) oil. 5 weight in winter for easier starting and 40 weight for summer for better lubrication in hotter (climate) engines. The oil was chosen because of todays extremely well built motors with their tighter tolerances only need that weight of oil. Any thicker and the engine has to fight the extra friction of the oil.

Now you can put 20W50 oil in it and see less fuel mileage because of the thicker oil it has to pump around and more friction due to the thicker weight of oil. But in the long run you will spend more in fuel you won't be protecting the engine any more because it is all very very slippery oil.

Just sayin (Amsoil user, ex dealer)

2faston3

Is there any difference between say the BRP 5w40 oil (motorcycle oil) and your generic Mobil 1 synthetic 5w40?

I seen in a few places oil being specified as 'motorcycle oil' is it just a gimmick or is there a difference in additives or something?