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For opinion sake do I change my oil out for the season or wait till spring? I've been told that leaving the Roadster in an unheated garage where the door is opened and a car is parked in it every day will allow condensation water to collect in the oil pan over the cold season.
Any thoughts. Bob
I always put fresh oil in all my outdoor stored equipment before the winter storage.
Would you then do another oil change at the beginning of the riding season due to condensation forming as mentioned above?Quote:
Originally Posted by Firefly
I guess that I've never put that much thought to it before... This year I changed the oil in the Spring at the start of the riding season... but it's also going to get changed now at the END of this season... I guess that I just let the 3000 mile changes fall where they may... :dontknow: But don't do what I do! :lecturef_smilie:
I use my bikes though the winter, So i don't worry about the oil, But if i was to store my bike over the winter, I would leave the gas tank filled to the top and add stabilizer in the gas also, that way you'll avoid condensation in the gas tank.Quote:
Originally Posted by recordingguy
Also if you have power in the garage keep a battery tender connected to the battery, so it will stay fully charged and no chance of the battery freezing.
Here in Minnesota storage is a must. One more thing i do is go to the local airport. Fill the bikes with aviation gas. Its $$ but they make it like the old gas. They can't afford to have airplanes falling out of the sky.
New oil will collect the same amount of condensation as old oil so I don't see the advantage of putting fresh oil in at the beginning of storage, unless you are really past due for an oil change. To get rid of the condensation you'll have to throw that new oil away before you run the engine next year anyway.
The most damaging condensation is going to be on metal to metal parts, like rings, cam lobes, etc., and you're not going to get that removed by just draining the oil. To get rid of that condensation you have to get the engine to operating temperature. This is not just 3 or 4 bars on the temp gauge as this only tells you coolant temperature and not engine component temps.
Basically, you need to get the engine hot enough to turn the internal moisture to steam and then it vents out of the crankcase.
The only moisture you can remove by draining a cold engine is that which has pooled at the bottom of the crankcase. It is unlikely that you'll get a significant amount of water pooled at the bottom of your crankcase, but still, you may not want to start the engine before a drain.
The real issue is how well the internal components are protected against possible moisture damage. The best thing to do is use an oil that resists moisture damage. I know I'm beating my drum again but a true synthetic oil (which BRP and many others are not) will give you the best protection against moisture damage.
Here is a great article on the 10w-40 True Synthetic Amsoil for motorcycle engines. This is the oil I use but there are a few other True Synthetic oils out there if you look. Yes, this information is produced by Amsoil but it is scientifically achieved using actual oils and industry standardized tests which are verified by 3rd party labratories. It isn't the typical cherry picked marketing hype that you can get elsewhere.
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/mcf.aspx
Bottom line, I think most good oils will give you adequate protection in most situations. The longer the engine is stored and the more extreme the potential for moisture damage, the more critical the oil you use will be. Some otherwise good oils do not have very good moisture protection properties. But it can be hard to get this kind of information to know for sure.
If your local gas contains ethanol, then storing the bike with a full tank is actually bad for the vehicle.Quote:
Originally Posted by boborgera
That's why i said to add Stabilizer, There are a few out there made for gas with ethanol.Quote:
Originally Posted by WackyDan
Also you never want a fuel system stored dry over the winter; ie, tank, pump, lines, injectors.
What's winter? :roflblack: Sorry, I couldn't help myself.:doorag:
Winter is when all the old folks from up north come to visit and screw up elections and the traffic.:roflblack:Quote:
Originally Posted by Yeochief
Has anyone used Startron fuel additive? If you read the lable,it covers all bases including ethanol problems.
I guess I'll be using that this winter when the spyder goes to sleep.Quote:
Originally Posted by viking3666
With my Oxford Hot Hands installed I will be riding ALL winter at least once every 7-10 days . Because it sits longer I add a certain amount of stabil to each tank in the winter. Amount is ":DTop Secret?"
Winter?? Not here. Hardest part is not getting sun burned all winter.:D
was told several yrs ago,if i store my trike in the winter on a cement floor,get rubber backed rugs to store it on to cut down the moisture,no problems since:trike:
Here in Ga. I don't do the change the oil for the winter. I add gas stabilizer, put the battery tender on, and run the engine once or twice month for 15 min. if not used. I do that with all my equipment and cars. This also keeps the seals from drying out. I always put the battery tender on my motorcycle when it's not being used. This makes the motorcycle battery for 5 to 7 years, but I will put a new battery in my spyder every 5 years. That's IMHO.
Mike