How much torque is needed for the 2 front spindle bolts/nuts top and bottom?

Can someone look up how tight (torque value) the front 2 spindle (m10/55mm) bolts should be on the front suspension? I am replacing both the top and bottom on left side. The dealer didn’t replace them after my deer accident and one is stripped, so it needs replaced. For $7 it’s a no brainer. He probably put an impact wrench to it my guess. I was cleaning it and see its loose and won’t tighten anymore. It won’t unthread either, so I’m going to impact it out myself and replace. Threads are squared off.


2017 RT limited

I think you are referring to the ball joint pinch bolts? Which are 35 ft lb +/- 4 ft lb

Here’s the bolt locations. You are probably correct. It was way tighter than 35 for sure. It was 85-100 when I tried to remove the top bolt. The bottom thread was all squared off, so I had to really impact that out. It was a 15mm head, looks like an M10 8.8 bolt and is 55mm long. Haven’t gone to hardware store to test the thread, but that's what I am guessing.

While you're in that area, why not replace the bottom shock bolts with "eye" bolts in case the bike ever needs to be towed? These bolts are available from various vendors, though I got mine from a local boat chandler.

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Originally Posted by Wmoater

Here’s the bolt locations. You are probably correct. It was way tighter than 35 for sure. It was 85-100 when I tried to remove the top bolt. The bottom thread was all squared off, so I had to really impact that out. It was a 15mm head, looks like an M10 8.8 bolt and is 55mm long. Haven’t gone to hardware store to test the thread, but that's what I am guessing.

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Yup, those are the ball joint pinch bolts and they are NOT supposed to be that tight and is why they are f'ed up now.... The value I gave is in the electronic Spyder Service Manual I have...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Wmoater

Here’s the bolt locations. You are probably correct. It was way tighter than 35 for sure. It was 85-100 when I tried to remove the top bolt. The bottom thread was all squared off, so I had to really impact that out. It was a 15mm head, looks like an M10 8.8 bolt and is 55mm long. Haven’t gone to hardware store to test the thread, but that's what I am guessing.

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While no mention was made that the dealer had these loosened or removed, very possibly they were during damage repairs.

Consider though, even if torqued 100% correct during assembly, between yellow threadlock compound, and breakfree torque the effort required to loosen can be a lot.

I recall removing brake caliper bolts, and they were a lot more effort to loosen than to tighten to specs.

I am replacing them tonight. (New nut and bolt) They were M10-55’s I had to buy 60’s and add a washer on both ends. I couldn’t find any flange bolts or nuts, just regular black hex’s and lock nut with no flange. My dealer wanted $8.00 a bolt and $3.00 for the nuts and can’t get it in for 7 days. I am pretty sure they were removed after the accident. My entire side fender was destroyed, ripped off along with all the wiring was torn up and even brake lines pulled etc. The foot was definitely into the wheel. The bolts looked scraped liked it was taken off. I agree with you PMK, lockthread does make it pretty hard to remove. The threads had no lock tight on them once I took them out, they were completely silver and squared like they were reamed into the hole instead of pushing the ball joint up or down, starting the bolt, again raising and lowered the joint till the bolt slides in by hand. I am guessing he simply put in hole, pushed up and down and forced in with impact, then impacted on. Thanks for the specs. Should be quick 1 minute job tonight and wheel back on. The accident was 2 years ago I just happened to be over cleaning and noticed the bottom one was actually not tight and was a bit loose. When I tried to tighten it and it wouldn’t budge I impacted it out. Since the bottom bolt was all messed up I figured check the top too. That one was super tight but didn’t look to terrible. Figured just replace both. Again cheap date. I did remove the 3 fender bolts and they were fine. The were probably new with the kit. I am guessing the M10’s were the original old ones.