2018 RT engine block with hole - is it repairable?

I just purchased what I was told is a repairable Spyder but it is questionable. After cutting away a large portion of the front end of the damage I noticed there was an oil leak. It turns out that the front link rod that is attached to the engine was pushed so hard that it caused a one inch diameter hole in the engine just above the starter. I appears as though it is made of cast aluminum and I have the broken off part. Is this repairable in a shop? If not it looks like I will have to strip the engine to its good parts and sell them off. THANKS IN ADVANCE FOR THE INPUT.

This may be of some help with your problem... BRP produced some 1330 engines with porous castings. Several of the engines were completely replaced, BUT, BRP also had some type of "Super Epoxy" that they were sending to those dealers fixing Spyders with oil leaking castings for the repair...

There were some posts here about this epoxy repair... It has been some time ago now if you search... Or maybe the owners of Spyders with this casting problem who've had the repair will speak up??? Hope This Helps... larryd

Thanks so much for your reply. That is good information.

I don't think the epoxy trick by itself would hold up as that is a structural part keeping the engine in place so it's always loaded. Not sure if it could be welded back or not but that might be a possibility.

Wonder how JB Weld would work on aluminum. Plus you would have to get all the oil off first. How big is the hole?

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Originally Posted by EdMat

I don't think the epoxy trick by itself would hold up as that is a structural part keeping the engine in place so it's always loaded. Not sure if it could be welded back or not but that might be a possibility.

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:agree:

I really don't think any of the epoxy or JB-weld based repairs would be up to the stresses placed on that particular part of the block by the front link rod!! :banghead:

It sounds very much to me like the front link rod has punched a fairly large hole (a one-inch diameter hole???) thru the block casting where the link rod connects to the casting, so the ONLY REAL way to even have a reasonable shot at fixing this properly would be to weld it!! And cos it's an alloy & a casting at that, it'll probably be REALLY HARD to find the right solvents/clean it properly; and even with the piece that goes into the hole, you'll still need filler for the weld, and it'll be just as hard to find the right filler material! :mad:

So read = NOT EASY or CHEAP into that!! ^^ :lecturef_smilie:

Good Luck! :cheers:

I would not trust reattaching the front link rod to the epoxyed in broken casting part...I'd hope you could fabricate a different attaching bracket for the front link rod??? Time for a little aftermarket engineering...larryd

If you were to bring me that bike to weld it, the first thing I would do is see if it was in a good area to have good access to weld, if it wasn't, then I would tell you I need better access to the repair. Long story short, is it repairable, maybe, but you need to give the guy the best chance for success! Given that this bracket that busted in the cast needs to have a good base, JB Weld would not be a good choice in this scenario! Another thing to think about. Without taking the whole case apart, what's behind that area that might not take to kindly to heat and welding debris? With alum, you have to get it clean, there's going to be a lot of grinding and welding spatter, or bleed thru on the back side! :lecturef_smilie: The best way to do this job in my book would be to break it down and have good access to that case, both sides! Sorry for the bad news, but I have been in the welding field for almost 50 years and have been around these rodeos to many times. Can it be fixed? Maybe!

Most times too, when fixing aluminum engine cases on motorcycles, we must use a propane torch or high temp heat gun and get the area hot, then wash with brake cleaner.

Typically it takes about 6 efforts of heat and cleaning to get the repair area and oil removed from any porosities.

Difference too for us, being that often times new or better condition used parts are not available.

The guy that does the welding for me is a certified aerospace welder, and hates having issues as more crud comes out of the weld zone.

Replacement engines are available. We have another member who is going thru this now with a low milage 1330 from a wreck. I am sure that is not the only engine available out there that you can swap. I don't think it would be any more expensive and may even be cheaper then what you are proposing. If this was a restoration on a very rare engine from the 1900's I could see going thru the weld process but not with the availability of good 1330's from a salvage yard.