What size Trailer to Haul Two Spyders? What ramp angle?

We ride only for most trips, but when we want to go 1000+ miles and then ride, it takes too long to get there and back when you don't ride the interstates.

My current need is to haul an F3S and a 500 lb motorcycle. But, if I'm going to buy another trailer, I want it to carry the F3S plus an RT.

What size bed would be required? What angle is needed on the ramp to prevent scraping?

I've seen a YouTube video of a guy putting a Spyder and a Ryker into an enclosed 7x14, but it's tight.

I'm looking at Aluma Trailers due to their low weight and our current tow vehicle's limitations.

Thanks,
Scott

Need more information. First what are you pulling these 2 spyders and trailer with? What is the rating of trailer? 2 spyders are say 2999 not including the weight of trailer which will be at least 400 lbs. check tongue weight capability of vehicle. It will need to be double axle at least 3500 axles. Your angle/height of trailer doesn’t matter. Make sure it’s level on truck for best tongue weight. The ramp length is what matters. Longer the better. But again as long as it’s 5 to 6’ long that’s all you need. It’s a simple solution if trailer ramp is to steep. I have a fusion toyhauler that is after the beaver tail 23 inches off the ground with a 8’ ramp. No way is a spyder going over that transition. To make it work take 4-2x8x16 inches long boards nailed together on top of each other. Then cut a wedge on both sides. Place the wood infront of rear truck tire and drive up onto of the wooden block “with trailer attached.” Since my fusion is 38 feet long and the rear tire is now 6 inches off ground now the rear of trailer is way lower and ramp is fine. You can do this with any trailer. I also have a work and play toyhauler and enclosed snowmobile trailer and use the same block and it works perfect. It simply takes 2 seconds to put block infront of rear wheel and drive up rather than the stupid disconnect trailer and use the front jack idea which also could stand itself up if the last spyder was stopped on the lower end of trailer on an open light trailer like an alumina trailer. As for the real question in length, 14 works but is truly a pain in the ars! My toyhauler has a 8x14 garage and yes 2 can go in but a lot of work. I also have a 8x20 enclosed and can fit 2 straight in. 7x18 you have to angle the first one and pull second in straight. Spyders are about 9 feet long once tied down. 18 has lots of room pull in and second back in. Again I hate messing around so straight in is my preference. 7x18 works but 7x20 if you want space to spare. We have to do this all the time with sleds. Getting 4 or so in a new trailer etc. the best thing for you to do is get some masking tape! The trailer is 7’ wide minus the 2 inch rails so 6’8”. lay a piece of masking tape on the floor. Measure over 6’6” (safety zone 2 inches smaller than real size) and run a parallel piece of tape on floor. Close the front and side up with a 18 foot and 20 foot parking space. literally drive the spyders into that parking spot. Next get several 2x4’s and lay them flat on the tape and do again. You touch the 2x4 that represents the rails it’s a no go. Easy peezee on determining the size. Remember if it fits in 6’6” it will fit in 7’ wide with 2 inches to spare because it’s really 6’8.

Thanks for the detailed response.

Definitely planning on dual axle. Current vehicle rated for 4400 lbs when trailer has brakes. Aluminum trailer saves quite a bit of weight. Will be less than 1800 lbs if I choose wisely.

Is there I trick if I need to rotate one or both Spyders while up on the trailer?

I was thinking two Spyders full of fuel but empty bags would be around 2300 lbs. Your number seems high but I really haven’t seen an actual wet weight measurement.

I’m sure I’ll have more questions once I get further along. What toy hauler do you have?

Short term with one motorcycle, about 1700 lbs for both.

I think 14’ length is out, I was hoping to get away with 16’ but it seems tight.

To slide a rear tire the easiest, fold a very good heavy duty tarp in half or even thirds. Put the rear tire over the tarp and pull the top fold on the tarp. Since the fold is against the other part of the tarp its plastic vs plastic providing little resistance. If needed, you can wet the tarp to really allow it to slide easy. I saw a guy once put a carpet under rear tire with rope as a handle and slide over plastic. They also make very low profile dollies that could be used but I have never tried. You're correct spiders empty are about 1100 lbs. Don't forget gas, gear inside storage areas, straps, chocks, spare tire, tote for spare tools and straps and maybe cooler etc will add some weight. The reason I used 2999 is thats the max limit for a single axle and registration/ inspection plating for most states that require brakes. Anything above requires brakes on one or both axles depending on state. You should never have more than 2/3 weight so you are pretty much forced to dual 3500 axels. No way would I even try putting 2 spyders on a single axle. I have a 38' fifth wheel fuzion toy hauler for long trips, a 24' work and play bumper pull toy hauler for weekend warrior for one Spyder and a 8x20' with 5'V nose all allumium snowmobile racing trailer made by blizzard. Its totally loaded with cabinets, front and rear ramp, stove, electric and air. All pulled with a F350 diesel or F250 with added spring gas for work and play and blizzard. with 4400 max make sure you know your tongue weight limits! 16' can probably work but I'd tape it out and see. It will need some jockeying around for sure. Never have tried. Bike and Spyder sure but not sure about 2 spiders.

So if you had a dual axle aluminum trailer and a choice of electric brakes or hydraulic brakes, which would you prefer?

I ride everywhere - I'm blessed enough to have the endurance to be able to. That said, my wife not so much. Her and her best friend are good for about 400 miles a day. As such, I wanted a light weight trailer that could haul 2 Spyders but be versatile as well. I didn't want an enclosed trailer that would sit most of the year - so I went with a landscape style trailer. It's 6.5' x 18'. Any shorter and you need to overlap the Spyders - they push 9' each. In an enclosed trailer overlapping isn't a big deal - but on an open trailer - if you back one on to overlap them - you need to be mindful of the windshield on the backed in bike. I'd remove it - too much stress on the windshield being pulled backward.

I use E-Track on my trailer to aid in the tie down and versatility. 2 Spyders nose to tail are mere inches apart - but with straps over the wheels locking them down tight I don't worry at all. My trailer sits up higher than I realized when I bought it - so when loading/unloading I jack the front of the trailer as high as I can while still attached to the tow vehicle - and I use some boards on the ramp to extend it out a bit and keep the nose from dragging - I don't need a board for the center wheel - just the front wheels to lift the nose slightly.

My trailer has Electric Brakes on 1 Axle. Because we tow the trailer with my Jeep (pictured) and my wife's Grand Cherokee and I didn't want to install 2 brake controllers - I opted for an "Autowbrake" controller mounted to the trailer itself.

This works well for me - and my trailer gets used for many other things as well. You have to decide what works well for you.

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Originally Posted by Jdr00ejr

I ride everywhere - I'm blessed enough to have the endurance to be able to. That said, my wife not so much. Her and her best friend are good for about 400 miles a day. As such, I wanted a light weight trailer that could haul 2 Spyders but be versatile as well. I didn't want an enclosed trailer that would sit most of the year - so I went with a landscape style trailer. It's 6.5' x 18'. Any shorter and you need to overlap the Spyders - they push 9' each. In an enclosed trailer overlapping isn't a big deal - but on an open trailer - if you back one on to overlap them - you need to be mindful of the windshield on the backed in bike. I'd remove it - too much stress on the windshield being pulled backward.

I use E-Track on my trailer to aid in the tie down and versatility. 2 Spyders nose to tail are mere inches apart - but with straps over the wheels locking them down tight I don't worry at all. My trailer sits up higher than I realized when I bought it - so when loading/unloading I jack the front of the trailer as high as I can while still attached to the tow vehicle - and I use some boards on the ramp to extend it out a bit and keep the nose from dragging - I don't need a board for the center wheel - just the front wheels to lift the nose slightly.

My trailer has Electric Brakes on 1 Axle. Because we tow the trailer with my Jeep (pictured) and my wife's Grand Cherokee and I didn't want to install 2 brake controllers - I opted for an "Autowbrake" controller mounted to the trailer itself.

This works well for me - and my trailer gets used for many other things as well. You have to decide what works well for you.

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Thanks for the information. I hadn’t thought about the windshield on a rearward facing Spyder. I’ve used E-Track on a couple of trailers and a truck, it works well.

They do make proportional brake controllers that control multiple axles in case you want to upgrade.

What brand trailer is that?

I've been very happy with only the 1 axle brake - many dual axle trailers I've used in the past have been the same setup. The Trailer is a Black Rhino. I got a steal on it used. The original owner is friends with the Black Rhino owner. He bought it and decided he'd rather have 5k axles instead of 3.5k axles so sold this one and bought another one.

Based upon your input, I found a Timpte 718, 18 ft drop down trailer. No ramps needed. 1640 lb empty weight.

They aren’t cheap but the 718 isn’t in production now, they’re just making the 20ft. Plus, the 718 has 3500 lb axles. So, I did get a little discount.

Here’s the 20 ft demo.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zjWszQ1TKoc

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Originally Posted by Onetrack97

Based upon your input, I found a Timpte 718, 18 ft drop down trailer. No ramps needed. 1640 lb empty weight.

They aren’t cheap but the 718 isn’t in production now, they’re just making the 20ft. Plus, the 718 has 3500 lb axles. So, I did get a little discount.

Here’s the 20 ft demo.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zjWszQ1TKoc

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Looks like an AWESOME Trailer! Enjoy it!

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Originally Posted by Onetrack97

So if you had a dual axle aluminum trailer and a choice of electric brakes or hydraulic brakes, which would you prefer?

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Overall, I prefer electric brakes, but there are times when hydraulic surge brakes make more sense.

Electric brakes require a controller. Usually, it is in the tow vehicle, but as Jdr00ejr noted, there are some models that can be mounted on the trailer. There is also a difference in models that are mounted in the vehicle. Some are time-based, meaning that when you press on the brake pedal, there is some braking power sent to the trailer, and then it increases up to a maximum that you have set. Proportional controllers have inertia sensors that will apply braking power to the trailer that matches what you are applying to the tow vehicle. Personally, I don't like the time-based units, as when I step on the brakes, I usually want them NOW.

Hydraulic brakes on the trailer are almost a no-brainer system. Assuming they have been set up properly by the manufacturer, they do not need any adjustment for additional load on the trailer. If you stop harder, the trailer will 'bump' into you harder, which applies the brakes harder. All self-compensating. The biggest drawback of a hydraulic system is when backing up. Since you are pushing backward into the coupler, it will tend to apply the brakes. There is usually a pin that can be inserted to prevent that. Some pins can be activated electrically, when the reverse lights are lit.

If you are pulling with only one vehicle (and don't loan out your trailer), I would recommend an electric controller. If you have more than one tow vehicle, look into either a hydraulic system or a trailer-mounted electric system. The trailer-mounted systems (electric and hydraulic) are also good if someone borrows your trailer that does not have an electric controller.

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I just hauled both of my RTL's to Florida and back last week. I borrowed a buddy's enclosed trailer that measures 8.5×20, and it was perfect! I'm not saying that is THE best trailer, but there was plenty of room to just ride both bikes straight in and strap them down. I was able to leave about a foot between each bike, and there was adequate room to walk around and check straps at fuel stops. That's A LOT of trailer, and it's heavy, but worked well!

The trailer has a 6' ramp, and dove tails at the back. No clearance issues whatsoever.

Any issues finding a place to park your vehicle & trailer while you're out riding?

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Originally Posted by Onetrack97

Any issues finding a place to park your vehicle & trailer while you're out riding?

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I reckon that is an "it all depends" kind of question. We carry the Spyder in an enclosed trailer (16') behind a 30' class A motorhome. Never had any issues parking.

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Originally Posted by Onetrack97

Any issues finding a place to park your vehicle & trailer while you're out riding?

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We try to scout the hotels (google maps aerial view is great) for what the parking lots look like. Never really had an issue parking the Tow Vehicle and Trailer. I've heard of folks talk about offering local church a donation to park there. We've never had to do that ourselves but would consider it if we couldn't a hotel parking lot that was suitable.

Any pics of which e track set up you have on trailer?

Mac’s Tiedowns Aluminum E-Track - I used aluminum e-track to eliminate dissimilar metal corrosion.