Help Frunk CABLE moves at ignition but won't open frunk

Hello I appologize as I am sure there are LOTs of threads on this type of thing.. But I am kinda stuck and in a hurry, Late for work and boss said no way in heck am I taking the whole day off.
2011 Spyder RS no electric release on this bike.
I opened the frunk once this morning and now... Frunk CABLE moves at ignition but won't open frunk. So either the cable snapped or the latch has failed... Frunk is not over filled!
So I have the plastic side panel above the oil panel. In order to remove the y shaped center cover the bolts are under the frunk lid. So stuck there.

My spyder guy just called me, says he can get it from the left side by lightly prying up on the lid and hook the latch & pull towards the left. But he mentioned a plastic cover. the only plastic cover I recall is the cover for the computer port. Mine goes all the way from one side to the other.
I am going to go have another try at it.

You could try pushing down on the frunk lid while turning the key?

The cable is broken - key won't do a thing no matter what you do....
I am in. and the cable IS definitely broken. I have one end in my hand and other end still attached to ignition. going to rig up a emergency release for now.
For the record the mechanism was opposite of what I read and was told. I have read PUSH from the right side to the left or pull from left. My cable comes from the right side and pulls the mechanism to the right.

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Originally Posted by deadboltdon

The cable is broken - key won't do a thing no matter what you do....
I am in. and the cable IS definitely broken. I have one end in my hand and other end still attached to ignition. going to rig up a emergency release for now.
For the record the mechanism was opposite of what I read and was told. I have read PUSH from the right side to the left or pull from left. My cable comes from the right side and pulls the mechanism to the right.

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I'm sooooooooooooooo glad you got it fixed .... I was preparing to do a lot of typing to give the info needed ....:clap::clap: ...... Mike :thumbup:

.... PS, I made a separate Release Cable for all the models of Spyders I have owned ( starting in 09 ) because IMHO , the ignition Switch should ONLY do one thing. Start & stop the engine ..... Mike :thumbup:

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Originally Posted by deadboltdon

The cable is broken - key won't do a thing no matter what you do....
I am in. and the cable IS definitely broken. I have one end in my hand and other end still attached to ignition. going to rig up a emergency release for now.
For the record the mechanism was opposite of what I read and was told. I have read PUSH from the right side to the left or pull from left. My cable comes from the right side and pulls the mechanism to the right.

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I'm not sure that's not because your Spyder is a 2011 RS, Don? There were some differences in that area between the early GS/RS models & everything from 2012/13 on, but it's been a while since I played with one of those early jobbies... :dontknow: . Glad you got it sorted tho! :thumbup:

As for that 'faded gray ring' around the ignition, if you're talking about the little ring that's not all that much bigger in overall diameter than the ignition barrel, about 1/2 inch or so larger in total; I believe it's just pressed in & should be fairly easy to gently pry out, just so long as you protect both it & the placcy underneath from anything sharp & any small area pressure points.... I generally use a 3/4 - 1" wide placcy painter's scraper these days, it's proven to be easier & less damaging than all the specific 'trim removal' tools I have! :rolleyes:

And if any dull & faded placcy trim you have hasn't yet actually reached the powdery & crumbling stage, you might want to try a quick pass or two with a 'not too hot' flame!! :shocked: . Yes, I know, it sounds weird & potentially dangerous, but you'd be surprised at how much/often & widely this technique is used to 'brighten' dulled plastic - and it really WORKS!! There are quite a few u-tube vids showing it in action, and they truly aren't faking the how or the results!! I generally use a small 'Hot Spot' blow torch that is effectively just a glorified placcy cig lighter, but I've seen people use much larger blow torches & even a biiig propane torch - but I'm not that game! :p . Give it a shot, it might save you some $$ :cheers:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911

.... ... I made a separate Release Cable for all the models of Spyders I have owned ( starting in 09 ) because IMHO , the ignition Switch should ONLY do one thing. Start & stop the engine ..... Mike :thumbup:

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I don't know if the earlier Spyders had the seat release on the key cylinder too, but that's what Mike is referring to. Those mechanisms are prone to failure, I think, because the cylinder and the cable guide never get lubricated. Some of us have anticipated that by devising a manual direct pull release for each of the frunk and seat latches.

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Originally Posted by UtahPete

I don't know if the earlier Spyders had the seat release on the key cylinder too, but that's what Mike is referring to. Those mechanisms are prone to failure, I think, because the cylinder and the cable guide never get lubricated. Some of us have anticipated that by devising a manual direct pull release for each of the frunk and seat latches.

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the 08 GS had this system as all that have followed ..... Mike :thumbup:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by UtahPete

I don't know if the earlier Spyders had the seat release on the key cylinder too, but that's what Mike is referring to. Those mechanisms are prone to failure, I think, because the cylinder and the cable guide never get lubricated. Some of us have anticipated that by devising a manual direct pull release for each of the frunk and seat latches.

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That's all true, but as the OP has found out, at least some of the earlier models not only had a 1 piece cover across the front/top of the frunk under the lid, but also had the cable routed to pull from the RIGHT side of the bike. :rolleyes:

And it's all well & good to anticipate the cable failure & fit a manual 'Get out of Jail Free' Emergency release for when the cable eventually breaks.... but what if you didn't anticipate that?? :dontknow: . It's really not very helpful to be told "I don't have that problem, cos I fitted an emegency release years ago" when you're frantically trying to open the frunk on a Spyder that DOESN'T have an emergency release!! :cus:

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Originally Posted by Peter Aawen

That's all true, but as the OP has found out, at least some of the earlier models not only had a 1 piece cover across the front/top of the frunk under the lid, but also had the cable routed to pull from the RIGHT side of the bike. :rolleyes:

And it's all well & good to anticipate the cable failure & fit a manual 'Get out of Jail Free' Emergency release for when the cable eventually breaks.... but what if you didn't anticipate that?? :dontknow: . It's really not very helpful to be told "I don't have that problem, cos I fitted an emegency release years ago" when you're frantically trying to open the frunk on a Spyder that DOESN'T have an emergency release!! :cus:

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I was explaining for the benefit of the OP (who had managed to open the frunk so wasn't in an emergency situation) what Mike was referring to with his comment about after-market frunk and seat latch release/ bypass.

Hey Peter, off topic...

Is placcy Aussie speak for plastic? And is it pronounced plakie or plassie?

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Originally Posted by FrogmanDave

Hey Peter, off topic...

Is placcy Aussie speak for plastic? And is it pronounced plakie or plassie?

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Yes, but it's pronounced 'Plaki' ;)

https://www.lexico.com/definition/placcy

Sorry, the first cab off the rank was a UK dictionary, so the pronunciation has a Pommie accent, not 'strine! :opps: