The One Handed Newbie...Torch or WD?

Well as mentioned in my first post, received the Spyder F3 number 4 UFIT floorboards today. Attempted to remove the two number 7 hex screws holding on the oem floorboards. No joy, not even a small budge :( so now deciding if I heat the threaded portion of the bracket or WD it first to see if it's simply corrosion on the like new 2018 machine. Afraid if I WD with no success I'll have flames if I heat with a propane torch next :sour: The long hex wrench had zero movement and the 3/8 ratchet hex attachment started to round the hex-head. I have found working with one hand limiting to put it kindly. Anyone else have this issue and good success with a different solution? Regards,

I suggest you contact UFIT to see what their experience was. And rather than using a torch with its intense heat, do you have a heat gun you can use instead? The screws likely have Loctite, hopefully Blue not Red (which is often used on exhaust fasteners). Surprisingly sometimes a fastener responds to a slight tightening action followed by a loosening action. And is there some way you can bring a second and third hand into the operation? Eg, you hold the metric bit and someone else taps the end with a hammer to loosen things up. PS I agree with not using WD40. Best wishes.

Yeah, probably just Locktite. You don't really need an oxy/acetylene torch to break the Locktite free. Just a little butane burner like you use for larger soldering jobs will break the Locktite free. I just trim the burner down to a small blue flame and hold it right on the head of the screws for a minute or so. They usually break right loose. If not, another minute or two with the butane will do it. The small butane bottles might be easier to use with one hand, and you can set it on the floor with it still burning, to check the screws are loose yet. Not sure you would be able to concentrate the heat enough with a heat gun.

For over 40 years, I repaired food machinery. Hoo Boy, talk about stuck fasteners. They are cleaned using bleach products and electrolysis does a nasty work of welding threads.
I have learned that WD40 is a good solvent, but a terrible penetrant. Liquid Wrench is much superior, but the best penetrant is a 50/50 blend of tranny fluid and acetone.
Only use 6 point wrenches on stuck fasteners--12 point willl round them off. And never apply a lot of "pull" using a long bar, until you feel motion. You can shear the bolt doing that.
Here, in the order I apply them, are some of the techniques I used to free stuck bolts.....
+ As mentioned before; heat. I use that first. Whatever method applies the most heat safely.
+ Apply penetrant while the fasener is hot.
+ Whack down on the fastener with a heavy hammer. If in a tight area, a ball peen hammer, or if real tight, a punch and hammer.
+ Using a 6 point socket and the longest ratchet handle, jerk hard back and forth.
+ Hit the wrench handle with the hammer several times.
+ If the subject fasteners are facing downward, make certain you are working them in the correct "lefty loosy" direction. Every one I have trained gets the direction wrong on downward facing fasteners. Moving the wrench handle from right to left is the correct motion.
Good luck.

You will find just about everything on your bike has a yellow version of thread locker from the factory. It is very obnoxious when it comes to removal. I would not use any open flame. If you have no other choice, like a heat gun, then consider investing in a quality hex socket, and using your open flame, heat the tip and let the heat go into the head of the fastener that way. It would not hurt to tap it with a hammer as stated above. Use steady pressure, no sudden jerking, and they will come loose. Keep this in mind if you decide to also change the handlebars. Those bolts are also sealed with the yellow, and a lot of people have stripped them out. I've done a couple of F3's and my 2020 RT uses the same handlebar mount now as the F3. Believe me, these things are very tight, and you'll want to use a torque wrench to reinstall everything. The correct torque is way less effort than what the yellow loc-tite makes you think.

Left side floorboard came off easy, and I saw the yellow thread locker. Will get a second and third hand assistance for the right side board...Thanks, Regards.

:2thumbs::congrats: late addition: good overnight soak in Marvel Mystery Oil or (found at HVAC/refrigeration supply)Has helped free up a #of problematic bolts/parts. Sometimes just get lucky bite with right tool & things open up properly.

Since you are replacing the floorboards, the simple and quick fix is a drill and 3/8th inch bit. Drill out the head of the screws and use new hardware on the replacement floorboards. Ask me how I know this...

We put heat to the bolts here at the shop to loosen up the thread sealer. A small butane torch works great.

Just a quick thank you for your suggestion. I ended up using a torch to heat the bolts(still stripped one hex head) then drilled and easy-outed the stripped bolt...turned into a 3hour project... New floorboards, brake linkage arm replacement and Helibars installed. Not sure I can add the hand brake with the Helibars? Rode today, nice improvement over all for my riding needs! Thanks again to all that contributed. Now a little better wind protection needed.

Thanks for letting us know your solution and the outcome. Enjoy that pretty, new ride.

LaMonster made a video to do this. Heat is needed!! I used a heat gun to get real hot. Still came out slow but sure. Be sure to loctite when putting back in.

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Originally Posted by stevencovert

LaMonster made a video to do this. Heat is needed!! I used a heat gun to get real hot. Still came out slow but sure. Be sure to loctite when putting back in.

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Yes, but blue this time!

Liquid wrench is good, but I've had MUCH better luck with Kroil. I've used it on everything to fishing reels to high pressure boiler/steam applications. Damn good advice as well.

https://www.amazon.com/Kano-Aerokroi...0915607&sr=8-2

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Originally Posted by Gwolf

Yeah, probably just Locktite. You don't really need an oxy/acetylene torch to break the Locktite free. Just a little butane burner like you use for larger soldering jobs will break the Locktite free. I just trim the burner down to a small blue flame and hold it right on the head of the screws for a minute or so. They usually break right loose. If not, another minute or two with the butane will do it. The small butane bottles might be easier to use with one hand, and you can set it on the floor with it still burning, to check the screws are loose yet. Not sure you would be able to concentrate the heat enough with a heat gun.

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:agree: .... I toured the Can-Am factory in Quebec .... there was a big sign on the wall ( in French ) , I asked the tour guide what it said .... He took me aside and laughingly said in English in means .... At Can-am you can't OVER-USE Loktite, .... BRP is the single most user of this stuff ON The Planet :roflblack::roflblack::roflblack:..... Mike :thumbup: