On my 2018 F3L, if I tighten the adjustment nuts so that I compress the front shock springs (harder ride), does the bottom of the tire Toe In or Toe Out?
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On my 2018 F3L, if I tighten the adjustment nuts so that I compress the front shock springs (harder ride), does the bottom of the tire Toe In or Toe Out?
Are you referring to camber adjustment?Quote:
Originally Posted by TheCajun1957
https://i.imgur.com/bkW8hDml.jpg
This is what my 2018 RTL service manual says: Camber 0 degrees to +/- 0.5 degrees. So they want the wheels more or less vertical. Chris
Since there is no camber or caster adjustment, the only thing that will measurably change is ride height. Toe in/toe out is controlled by the tie rods. The amount of arc travel altered by the ride height will not change the toe setting enough to be as much of a problem as the ride height change. Either way, set the front suspension to the proper ride height for your normal weight load, then set the rear suspension height measurement properly in BUDS, get a Baja Ron sway bar, and a quality laser alignment. Your Spyder will reward you with great handling.Quote:
Originally Posted by TheCajun1957
And some good car tires!Quote:
Originally Posted by Jetfixer
Isn't that just a different spin on the 'bump steer' question? How do the wheels point differently as the suspension moves through it's travel?
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Here's why: https://www.steedablog.com/2018/01/2...eck-bumpsteer/Quote:
Originally Posted by PMK
As the bike lowers on the a-arms, the wheels toe outward.Quote:
Originally Posted by TheCajun1957
Sorry about that, yes I ment camber, as I add more preload to the shock, does the camber go more positive or negative? I noticed my tires were wearing a bit more on the inside like the camber was abit too negative. Do I increase the preload, raise the front end or decrease the preload, lower the front end?
I wonder what is the proper ride height for my F3L? Where would I find that?
Toe changes too.Quote:
Originally Posted by TheCajun1957
420mm measured from the upper to the lower shock mount bolts, with the weight of rider, passenger and cargo. From the service manual.Quote:
Originally Posted by TheCajun1957
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jetfixer
Love these threads! Amazing how we are able to take a simple question and make it complicated. Then run it off the rails! Not complaining or attempting to flame anyone. I do the same thing! Just saying how much I love it. Though it does give moderator's heartburn at times. Again not my (or your) intention. Just the nature of the beast, me thinks.
Anyway, as others have already correctly stated. As the frame travels upward (suspension downward) You get an increase in 'Toe-In'. And just the opposite as the frame/suspension travels in the other direction.
The change seems to be more pronounced as the suspension is compressed than as it is extended. This is why you have to make steering corrections as you negotiate a sweeping or tight curve. As the outside suspension collapses, you get a Toe-Out condition which changes your trajectory, while the lifting outside wheel pretty much maintains it's prescribed Toe-In condition. A Toe-Out condition will cause wandering and difficulty in keeping your line. This action forces you to make steering adjustments to compensate.
Keeping your Spyder/Ryker more level in turns, while maintaining compliance, gives you much needed stability and cornering ability. There are other factors as well. But this Toe-In/Toe-Out transition is a major one.