Anyone else having issues with this switch? I gave up today and just put a small tie wrap on it to keep the switch closed.
Pat
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Anyone else having issues with this switch? I gave up today and just put a small tie wrap on it to keep the switch closed.
Pat
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pat Clark
I think they add a shim to improve mechanical contact
I had problems with that switch from day one. First time they just squirted some lube on it. I did find out that the left side of the lid needs to line up onto the slot or it wont close properly but even then I need to give it a firm press down to keep it from kicking off the warning.
Whats this about adding a shim? And how do I do that?
The 'open/closed' indicator light and the top case latch itself are a big PITA on my 2017 F3L. Often have issues in closing properly, then in making sure warning light stays off. Seems to be a common problem, as noted here. Some have used a shim or piece of tape to improve contact between the points. Haven't yet done that on our bike, but we do find that very firmly closing the lid is necessary, and I often give the lid an additional firm slap or 'spank', which seems to be sufficient.
Proper closing of these lids are like a seat install. There are plastic prongs on the hinge side facing the front of the Spyder on each side. If either one of these prongs do not go into the slot when you close the lid, It will distort the fitment of the hinge side and allow wind and rain into the box from the front. most people only look on the latch side or the back. As you close the lid, watch the front side first so it is properly aligned and seated, then press the back down firmly till it clicks and then you can use the key to lock it.
I removed my switch. I don't have a switch on the side bags and everything works.Quote:
Originally Posted by Pat Clark
There is a tech service bulletin out for the switch to add a shim. The dealer should do it for no charge.
I did the same thing works fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by gvcntx