If anyone is using this setup please, how many miles troublefree.
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If anyone is using this setup please, how many miles troublefree.
I installed mine soon after I bought my F3L and about 12,000 miles now. Excellent results and quality product.
I have a 2015 RT Limited, and installed a Smooth Spyder tensioner when I first got it. The Smooth Spyder did a good job and I was pleased with it, until. When Doc Humphries first came out with his adaption of BRP's idler pully he provided this version to specific testers at a good price, and I was lucky enough to be one of those. Why? I figured at the price there were no disadvantages to trying it out. Smartest think I could have done, as Doc Humphries unit has gotten rid of vibrations I didn't know exsisted, and now my Spyder goes down the road almost like an automobile, smooth as silk. Oh, it weights significantly less, and is quite a bit cheaper. It is also much easier to install than the Smooth Spyder tensioner. Check it out, there are many very happy customers. Go the Roadster Renovations, and give Doc a call, he'll be very happy to talk to you.
David
I had the smoothspyder installed when I first purchased it. Over 8k now. I did this because of the stories I read on here and the first time I drove down the highway at 60 to 70 the vibration was very bad. The Smoothspyder eliminated this completely. The bike shifts smooth as silk and I go down the highway at 70 + with ZERO vibrations. The quality is solid and warrantied. It is a little pricey but considering I paid 28k what's 400 bucks for comfort. I am sure both work equally as well. IMHO
I emailed Jim from Smooth Spyder a few weeks back on 6/7 to ask a question... No response.
I hear good things about his product though...I don't think either product is worse than the other or better than the other. Doc of course is far more active on our forums.
Keep in mind that on an F3, one of the tensioners does require cutting some plastic.
Wackydan, you might try Jim again. I have always found him to be responsive to his emails and his cell phone for questions. He enjoys feedback about his products and is always willing to provide assistance.
Not on the F3- T or the F3 LTD. Which is what I was referring too. From what I saw on Smoothspyder site there are two different models. On my F3 LTD nothing was cut or removed except for one bolt which was replaced with a longer one. As for Jim not replying back I found him to be very responsive that he replied back to me with a answer when he was on vacation!. That is service.
Good Luck!. NH ROCKS!!!:bowdown:
Sorry Dan,
My apologies, but I can't find any emails around that time that I missed or that weren't answered.
I'm still on here and still working on new things, but I mostly just watch from the sidelines and don't say a lot unless I have something pertinent to contribute.
Would like to know the benefits/requirement of this belt dampener/vibration suppressor (having to cut the plastic) vs. the other one(s) where no cuts are necessary on the F3 chassis...
(I know the OEM one doesn't last.)
I have a 2016 F3T with 851 miles on it now. I am leaving on a big trip in August and don't know if I can go highway speeds cause at about 65-70 miles,per hour I am getting lots of vibration. I have talked to two different dealers and they say a belt tensioner won't help I just will have to go over 70 miles,per hour and it will get better. I read about Smooth Spyder and Docs tensioner and wonder if it would help! I am not mechanical but my farkling is getting expensive with labor costs. Is there anything easy to install or videos to help? Thanks in advance for help!
This video is for a RT, but the F3 bolts up the same way. There are no adaptors on the kits we now have available. As far as I know, our kit and BRP's are the only ones that dampen the tension side of the belt. It is like putting a finger on a guitar string to stop it from vibrating.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xkCEelsoNEY
List of available kits. You need to view it with a big computer.
http://dochumphreys.wixsite.com/road...amper-products
I've read somewhere on this forum that the "noticeable vibration window" is related to belt tension. ~ Does more belt tension increase OR decrease the speed (of vehicle) at which the vibration becomes noticeable?
At first I thought it was "road surface" prior to reading about the belt vibration issue. (I begin to notice it in the low 60's mph. range on my F3-S, which based on reports here seems a little low.)
Check out this YouTube link. It shows the tensioner at work.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f5tTx063Cqo
This tensioner is on the return side of belt, but the BRP and Doc's are on the pull side, correct? BRP's "fix" suggests it's the tension side causing the vibration. (which contradicts Smoothspyder approach) Thinking I'll just "drive hard" around town and keep it under 65 for now! (My "3 week riding season" is essentially over this year anyways col. ~ Occupational hazard.) <sad> ~ Maybe next year!
Our tensioner for the 2015-2017 F3, F3S models and 2015-2017 F3T and 2016 F3 LTD. models both go on the top/tension side of the belt and use a proven, purpose built long life idler.
The minor trimming of the plastic on the F3-F3S was needed to get the larger idler moved back far enough without hitting the frame bar directly above it. That's why the other idlers are small.
These idlers have a 6203 ball bearing with a special C-4 designation, C-4 meaning that they are purposely designed with extra internal clearance between the race and ball bearings so they will have long longevity at sustained high speeds without burning up.
Many serpentine auto belts use the same size idler bearing, but no C-4 designation with a much tighter clearance for much slower speeds.
The 2016 T and LTD. models bolt to the rear lower shock bracket and require no plastic trimming.
These will not work with the 17 LTD. as the automatic air ride switch is in the way, only the F3T for the 2017's.
I haven't been following the forum closely, last year everyone spoke highly about the $45 BRP belt tension mod. What happened to it?
There have been two different problems. The first problem is that the pulley will come apart and the bolt will dig into the belt, ruining it. The second problem we are now seeing (2 back to back at the Tenn Rally) is that debris will get trapped in the pivot point and freeze it above the belt. Of the two, the second item would be the best to have. There also have been a few F3's that have broken the springs.
Also, note that if you have installed the BRP idler on your F3, it probably won't be covered unless done by a authorized service center. Any RT folks that have used our adapter with the BRP unit are also on their own if it fails.
I have over 8,000 trouble free miles on my BRP idler. If any of these aftermarket idlers work better & last longer how about a fact based lab tested third party evaluation of these aftermarket idlers and their warranties? My BRP idler reduced my vibration with a good guess at around 90% and came with a warranty of one year because it was dealer installed. Yes that warranty also covers the belt if the idler fails and damages the belt, as stated by my dealer.
Talk is so cheap, "smooth as silk".....my *ss.