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Belt Alignment And Tensioning System.
Allows for belt to be adjusted with correct weight on the wheel. Extremely fast to do. Since the wheel is turning while the adjustment is made it is very easy to get the correct position. By turning the wheel slowly while in gear, no codes are triggered. If they are, they will reset after the first test ryde.
If everything continues the way it is going, we will showcase this at the East Tenn Rally next month! Hope to see you there.
Do you know what the cost will beQuote:
Originally Posted by Doc Humphreys
So...what's the timeline..?? when will you have them on the shelf..?? :popcorn:not worried about the price yours are always fair....:thumbup:
and youre going to tease us with a video soon, right ?:yes::yes::popcorn:
Belt tension spec has always been set with the rear wheel off the ground. With the rear off the ground and the motor running and in first gear you can also align the belt. After you get it tracking correctly you adjust each side equally to bring it up to the correct tension.
I have never had luck with the wheel in the air. It always changes when it is on the ground. This eliminates that. Just set the tension, roll it under the wheel after loosing the axle nut and set it on it. Start the byke and in gear just idle it up to slowly spin the rear wheel, then adjust the alignment. Stop the byke, tighten the axle, then unload it and test drive.Quote:
Originally Posted by Doc - Riverside
As far as cost, I hadn't really expected individuals to want them, but any shop that does a bunch of these is going to love how easy and quick. We will sell to individuals though.
By the service manual the tension is always set with rear wheel off the ground. The reason for this is that it puts the belt in a known static state ( no weight on the wheel and the bottom of the swing arm arc). If the tension is set correctly and you now put the rear wheel on the ground the tension will increase because of several factors. One being the weight of the Spyder and the other factor is how much weight you have in the rear trunk and both side cases. Belt tension will also go up when you sit on the seat and will further increase is you put a passenger in the passenger seat. I have found that to set the tension you should set the alignment first with the tension below spec. Then creep up on the low side of the tension spec by adjusting both side screws equally so you don't loose the alignment. Now tighten the axle nut. In most cases I have found that the tension will increase when you tighten the nut to spec. There are no specs that I know of for setting belt tension on the ground. This number was advertised as a quick check after the dealer set the belt tension per the service manual.Quote:
Originally Posted by Doc Humphreys
So, I have 2 Crickets; one for off the ground and the other for on the ground. I usually set it up in the air, drop it down to see what the loaded reading is. This gives me the ability to check it on the ground or up in the air. This piece of equipment is more for alignment than tension. Setting the tension first before putting it on the machine allows you to then adjust the tracking. You can then check tension when you jack it up off the ground when you remove it from the device.
We need a video, Doc!
Gunner
Video coming by the end of the weekend..........promise!
I think this a great idea for setting the belt tracking. Even with the jack and jack stands and the front wheels chocked, I am always concerned if the wheel were to touch the ground. Always have the Wife standing by to hit the brake if sh1t happens. I bet it gives a truer setting with some weight on the swing arm.
I find when setting the belt the thickness of a credit from the inside of the flange, when driving the belt moves about 2/16 more to the outside. Please let us know how much the belt moves while driving after setting it up with baats. Your device reminds of a mini dyno without the load, Lol.
That is exactly how I came up with the concept. We rode about 50 miles after and it stayed right where it was put. And it may not be easily seen, but the wheel is is about 4" off of the ground, so no possibility of contact.Quote:
Originally Posted by SpyderCruiser
The picture on the left was immediately after the test ryde after adjusting it with the new B.A.A.T.S. system. The picture on the right was taken tonight after several days and about 500 miles. The system works very well.
are you going to be selling these. a good idea for the people who do a lot of these.
I just had to put another belt on my Spyder and am going through alignment hell right now. Aligned perfectly in the air, but once on the ground and ridden, it's all the way to the left side of the rear flange and rubbing the flange on the drive sprocket. Doc, if you won't be selling these, any chance you'd share your roller source? ...or at least the width and diameter. I'd love to have one of these YESTERDAY. I'm no longer "strong like bull" and that 166 FT-LB torque rating is wearing my but out!
Also, I seem to be able to get to the bottom of my belt much easier than the top. Does it really make a difference from which position (top ....or.... bottom) you take the measurement while in the air? If the rear wheel is allowed to freely rotate, I can see no logical reason why the readings from the top and bottom would not be the same.
I would suggest not using that one. It is too shallow and would be very dangerous.Quote:
Originally Posted by Joel The Biker
We will sell two different models of these. The one for the occasional alignment will be lighter with thinner materials and will cost around $250. The second model, like the one shown will be available for $500. This one would be for a shop or individual that does a lot of them. I am now taking orders for both models. PM me to get the process started.Quote:
Originally Posted by Windagetray
No problem, Joel. Actually, I make the adjustments without the wheel turning. It can even be done by one person. Chock the front wheels, make a slight adjustment (with the byke off) Start the byke and place it in gear and let it idle with your foot by the brake. Stop it and check your alignment, repeat as necessary to get it correct, At no time should you be adjusting it with the wheel turning.Quote:
Originally Posted by Joel The Biker
Done correctly, this is actually SAFER than having the rear wheel up in the air. The HF cleaning unit is too shallow. The spacing between the rollers needs to be enough so that the wheel can't hop out. Do what you want, but I have done hundreds of these at Rallys and this system works and used correctly is perfectly safe.