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I test rode a 2015 F3-S today and loved it. I am planning to buy a 2016 F3 LTD this week. With the pegs on the 2015 the brake pedal was in a great place. The 2016 will have boards. Visually it looks like the brake pedal is much too high up. Anyone with a 2016 with boards have any problems reaching the brake? Is there a way to lower the brake pedal? Can the boards on the 2016 be replaced with pegs?
i find the brake pedal is high with boards. just takes getting use to brake pedal position.Quote:
Originally Posted by NewHornist
i love the boards so switching them out is not an option for me.
If you know someone who can weld, the brake link rod can be cut, shortened, and rewelded. The rod is actually a tube. I describe the process I used for my wife's F3 Limited here http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...e-link-rod-mod
H2O
There is a simple, but expensive, solution. Buy Lamonster RIP boards. They are around $500, but in return you get......
A very long, wide board that gives you another option for mounting the F3.
Plenty of room for moving your feet around while riding
A change to your foot angle that makes using the brake pedal far more comfortable, without getting into modifying the pedal itself.
You can buy a version for any foot position. They would be the first thing I would buy for any future Spyder.
Pete
Thanks for the link, I can weld, so I will be doing this modification for my wife's 2016 F3L.Quote:
Originally Posted by H2O
She's 5 foot nothing. :joke:
I've always thought that the brake pedal on the F3's meant you hadta twist your foot/toes up & back into an unnatural angle in order to operate it, so I have looked just a little into how that pedal could be safely lowered, & I believe it's not quite as simple as you might think & hope!! :shocked:
For those considering shortening the rod, do be a little careful how much you shorten it! The pedal itself is on a pivot with a slot & pin arrangement in there that only allows a set range of total movement; so if you shorten the rod then yeah, it pulls the pedal further down, but at the same time it also makes the pedal closer to the bottom limit in its full range of travel & you may find you can't fully apply the brakes any more!! ! If that's the case, you might hafta use a die grinder or similar to lengthen the slot that limits how far the pedal can travel; or maybe you could re-drill the hole that the rod connects to, so that it returns the length of the rod/pedal stroke to something close to the original length without raising the pedal any!
I have also seen a 'V' cut into the metal of the pedal shank under the foot plate so that the shank could be bent down in order to close up the 'V' & lower the pedal without any impact on the full range of its travel; so when they got the height right, the 'V' section was fully closed & it could be welded back together & return the pedal shank to its original strength, just with the pedal in a lower position!!
Whatever you do, just make sure that once done, you can still fully apply the brakes in an emergency!! :thumbup:
I took the advice from many other folks on the forum and took the route of a very easy solution. The rear brake linkage can easily be drilled for another hole which effectively lowers the pedal. I am very pleased with the result-just make sure you have all the braking power you need. Additionally, I put an aftermarket wide pedal on which made a much better braking experience.
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I took the rod off the brake pedal end and drilled a hole about 1/2 inch back from the original hole. Dropped the pedal so now we can pivot our foot with our heel on the floorboard. Pretty easy to do.Quote:
Originally Posted by NewHornist
You're saying that it "looks to high"...
Why not actually try putting some miles on the bike, and then make a decision about this.
You might actually find that it works out pretty well. nojoke
Just one small thing needs to be mentioned: :D
It's not a "Break" pedal, until it's busted!
Sorry... i HATE those Spell-Check Programs!
Thank you! This seems like a good option!Quote:
Originally Posted by Peteoz
I drilled a 5/16 hole 1/2" behind the front hole on the forward end. I had to file 1/8" off the break lever to make the fit loose and not snug, it has the same play as before. This lowered the break pad 1" making it MUCH more accessible in emergency breaking. Tools needed...5/16 drill bit, 5mm allen key, 10mm socket, 16mm wrench (for break axel bolt) and a file. Another alternative would be to dremel out the safety notch located inside the break pad and drill out a hole installing a bolt 1/2" forward of the current bolt, this moves the floor board 1/2" forward though. The other way would be to cut the break rod, remove 1/2" and have it welded back together. Hopemy pictures show the handiwork, its my first time loading pictures to this website so I'm hoping it goes smoothhttp://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/a...629251&thumb=1http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/a...629293&thumb=1http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/a...629336&thumb=1http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/a...629376&thumb=1http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/a...629420&thumb=1. I think overall I would have cut the pipe and had it welded back together if I was to do it over again.....just my thoughts.Quote:
Originally Posted by NewHornist
Yes this is the logical solution. However my dealer, who I like very much and bought my 2014 RT-S from, has virtually no floor space. He will be building the 2016 after I order it. He literally doesn't have room for the 2015 that I test rode and another F3. I suppose I could back out of the deal but I'd hate to do that to him.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Denman
Oops!!! I should have caught that.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Denman
Thanks for the comprehensive instructions. I am in no way capable of doing this mod. One of the most frustrating things about Spyders and living on Long Island is that I can't find anyone to do any kind of aftermarket work. Also, if you make a change like this does it void the warranty or an insurance pay out? (Bike doesn't stop soon enough regardless of the reason and the insurance guy sees the mod and blames the accident on the mod.)Quote:
Originally Posted by Road-Kill
My typing hasn't been all that great either... "to high" :opps:Quote:
Originally Posted by NewHornist
Good point, Bob, but this is one of the times when that option doesn't really work. The brake pedal is so high that you can't bend your ankle enough to keep your heel on the board and still get to the brake. It's obviously done to ensure the best possible brake pressure is available to you, but many riders effectively have to lift their whole foot off the board to press down on the pedal which can make for "less than smooth" braking.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Denman
Lamont's RIP board raises your feet slightly and changes the angle, but it does highlight the issue that Can Am are trying to address in having the pedal so high. It only seems to happen if you have size 14s and above, but if you are riding with your feet well back on the board (I have found myself doing this once or twice.....not quite sure why), and then try to quickly apply the brake, the size 14 soles act like a plank, and partly contact the metal block that goes over the frame to hold your boards in place, reducing braking effectiveness a little as you can't press the brake fully down. It is not a concern after the first time it happens as you quickly adjust, but it IS a little disconcerting that first time.
Pete