new brakes-2013 RT

I just installed new EBC sintered brake pads (front & rear) on my 2013 Spyder RT & I can't find the torque specs. for the caliper bolts. Also, I understand there's a "bed-in" process for these pads. I was hoping somebody could help me out with this info.. I guess it's time to get a shop manual!! Thanks for any help.

here is a couple

77ft.pounds > brought too you buy IGETAROUND

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Front 50 Ft Lbs
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I am guessing he didn't buy them from Ron.I'd also guess being the kind of person Ron is he would send them if asked.

Quote:

Originally Posted by pegasus1300

I am guessing he didn't buy them from Ron.I'd also guess being the kind of person Ron is he would send them if asked.

:agree::thumbup::thumbup:

It never ceases to amaze me that folks buy stuff, then complain, but guess what? They didn't buy from forum supporters. Why would anyone want less than the stellar service and customer support that we can all enjoy if we continually buy from all the good folks here that fund this site. An extra shout out to BajaRon, dealt with him many times, couldn't be happier with his products and customer service. Just remember "Buy Local"

Quote:

Originally Posted by oldguyinCT

Just remember "Buy Local"

Just so I know for the future ... exactly what does "Local" mean?

Break in Pad Procedure

To answer the op’s question, once the pads are on, take the Spyder up to 60 mph then press brake hard until you see your speedometer go to 20 mph, then release. Do not come to a complete stop! Do this procedure 4 to 5 times and your pads should be broken in. BajaRon please correct me if I am wrong.

Quote:

Originally Posted by blitzkreig

Just so I know for the future ... exactly what does "Local" mean?

I think they are referring to buying from Spyderlovers sponsors

Quote:

Originally Posted by oldguyinCT

:agree::thumbup::thumbup:

It never ceases to amaze me that folks buy stuff, then complain, but guess what? They didn't buy from forum supporters. Why would anyone want less than the stellar service and customer support that we can all enjoy if we continually buy from all the good folks here that fund this site. An extra shout out to BajaRon, dealt with him many times, couldn't be happier with his products and customer service. Just remember "Buy Local"

I didn't hear any complaint in the OP's original post just a question as to torque specs and break in procedures. He may not know who BajaRon is, what he sells or that the break in procedures come from from him. This is my second set of pads from Ron and I had forgotten that fact.

BTW the torque for the caliper screws is 18 ft/lbs and the torque for the pad pins is 34 ft/lbs

You're Right!

Quote:

Originally Posted by JKMSPYDER

To answer the op’s question, once the pads are on, take the Spyder up to 60 mph then press brake hard until you see your speedometer go to 20 mph, then release. Do not come to a complete stop! Do this procedure 4 to 5 times and your pads should be broken in. BajaRon please correct me if I am wrong.

This is basically what needs to be done. EBC recommends 8-10 cycles. But they are assuming you have a crotch rocket (which are the major users of these pads). Because a sport bike weighs less than 1/2 of what our Spyders do, it takes more cycles to get the pads hot enough to cure the bonding resins and bed the pads to the rotors. Once you do the speed up and aggressive slow down cycles you need to ride for a few miles without stopping to allow the brake system to cool down evenly.

Quote:

Originally Posted by BajaRon

This is basically what needs to be done. EBC recommends 8-10 cycles. But they are assuming you have a crotch rocket (which are the major users of these pads). Because a sport bike weighs less than 1/2 of what our Spyders do, it takes more cycles to get the pads hot enough to cure the bonding resins and bed the pads to the rotors. Once you do the speed up and aggressive slow down cycles you need to ride for a few miles without stopping to allow the brake system to cool down evenly.

This is good to know; haven't found that info anywhere else.

My dealer just replaced all my pads with OEM without me asking for them to do that (long story - see my other thread about new rear caliper at 15k miles). Anyway, do you know if the OEM pads require the same break-in method? Dealer said nothing when I picked it up.

And, while we're on the topic what is the difference between OEM and EBC pads, for future reference? The dealer seemed to think they were longer lasting (EBC) but noisier.

Thanks.

Bump

Quote:

Originally Posted by UtahPete

This is good to know; haven't found that info anywhere else.

My dealer just replaced all my pads with OEM without me asking for them to do that (long story - see my other thread about new rear caliper at 15k miles). Anyway, do you know if the OEM pads require the same break-in method? Dealer said nothing when I picked it up.

And, while we're on the topic what is the difference between OEM and EBC pads, for future reference? The dealer seemed to think they were longer lasting (EBC) but noisier.

Thanks.

Answered in the other thread by now.