I have a 2019 RT SE6. Should I take the black rubber part out of the brake reservoir and then add fluid to the max mark or leave the rubber part in to check the level? Also when should I do the flush? I have 23,000 miles on the trike.
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I have a 2019 RT SE6. Should I take the black rubber part out of the brake reservoir and then add fluid to the max mark or leave the rubber part in to check the level? Also when should I do the flush? I have 23,000 miles on the trike.
I don't think mileage has much if anything to do with it's life ..... I think it's just amount of time it's been used .... " black rubber part " .... are you talking about the " rubber diaphragm " inside the screw-on cap ????? if so then NO ..... good luck .... Mike :thumbup:Quote:
Originally Posted by dg110270
Page 106 of your operator's guide specifies that brake fluid should be replaced every two years. Page 120 of the guide mentions nothing about removing the rubber diaphragms before filling the master cylinder that is a different design than mine and Mike's. One cannot bleed or flush the ABS module without B.U.D.S., although it is only a small amount of fluid. Remember, brake fluid will eat the paint on your Spyder if spilled on it. ALWAYS start with a NEW can of brake fluid. You would be wise to invest in an online service manual ($30 or so) so you do the job correctly from the get go.
Yes sir. That’s what I’m talking about Mike. I didn’t know the name.Quote:
Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911
Thank you JayBros.
:chat: BRP says that you need to change the Brake Fluid for your Spyder..................
EVERY 2 Years.
1. Always use a new unopened can of Brake Fluid.
2. Follow the instructions for Bleeding your System.
3. A service manual is very helpful.
4. Caution: Brake Fluid can damage your paint.
5. Some people have their Brake Fluid done by a
Dealer. Sometimes a wise choice.
What ever you decide, get it done and done right. ..:thumbup:
Get a set of speed bleeders, you won't be disappointed, and that black piece you are talking about should be staying in the cap when you take it off, you may need two new caps!! Good luck!
Make sure you put the caps on with vents facing the rear...
Caps go on this way with the ribs facing to the rear:
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The MY '19 RT master cylinder is entirely different from previous MYs, including the cap.Quote:
Originally Posted by larryd
This would be great, however the diaphragm which has the vents can rotate inside the cap .... so when you screw it down the vents move ....I prefer the type of cap that presses on ..... How do you keep yours from moving ???? ..... thanks >>> Mike :thumbup:Quote:
Originally Posted by larryd
Mike,
I look at where the cap locks. And then take them back off and align them where they need to be at 12 o'clock and then put them back on and try not to push to hard to keep the diaphragm from rotating with the cap
Thank you guys for the info and tips. Mine looks like the picture.Quote:
Originally Posted by M109Dreamer
Just curious as to what you will do. Brake Fluid Flush by your self or let your Spyder Dealer do the job.Quote:
Originally Posted by dg110270
Thank you ....mine are the old style with twin reservoirs and screw-on caps ..... Mike :thumbup:Quote:
Originally Posted by dg110270
I think I’ll try this myself and hope for success. I’ll need a radiator flush pretty soon and that one troubles me. I don’t know where to drain the coolant from and how not to get air pockets in the system. I’ve got an ex Can Am tech that will charge me $300.Quote:
Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911
Drain the cooling system by removing the lower radiator hose from the radiator.Quote:
Originally Posted by dg110270
DO NOT TRY TO USE THE DRAIN PLUG.
WHY because it has a bad habit of breaking off. ....:thumbup:
Another reason to purchase a service manual.
You can and should flush & change the brake fluid every two years. Speed Bleeders help tremendously. However, there is no way to completely flush the system without BUDS. You need BUDS to activate the bleeding procedure on the ABS unit.