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I"m looking to add rear speakers to my 2012 RT/AC and was wondering if anyone is using these speakers? I was thinking of changing out the fronts while I"m at it. Are they better than poke speakers? Thanks for the info. Here's the link:
http://www.customdynamics.com/can_am...o_speakers.htm
Try this Thread it may help
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...770#post424770
Eddie Sheppard
Reading UK
Thanks for the info--very helpful!Quote:
Originally Posted by eddieshep999
The J&Ms have a pretty good reputation. :2thumbs:
I got all 4 JM speakers from custom dynamics. They sound way better than stock. Rears were easy to install. Fronts require a total teardown of the dash, cowl, windshield, mirrors, etc. plan on HOURS of work.
I ordered them last weekend and they are in back order....... just so you know.
I installed only the rear j&m. Their presence alone helps a ton! I can actually hear my music at freeway speeds now.
I used the POLK and will say that while better than stock, I would not have done it with the minor improvement it offered. Now, adding the rears - yes - for sure as the wires are already there and not too bad to do. The fronts, there is a video someone made and I agree it was hours of work for little benefit but I would attribute that to the lack of power from the stock system (amp wise).
Dan,
Do you have any way that you could email me the instructions for installing those J&Ms?
Yeah. PM me your email address..... But I have to tell you the instructions are nothing more than text---- no photos. I'd do the rears again, but most likely not the fronts---- it really was a lot of work to get to them!!! Not a job for the faint of heart or the impatient.
PM being sent next! :thumbup:
Thanks! :clap:
I also have a 2010 Rt A/c and added rear speakers which are 4 inch marine type speakers. They work out great and the wiring is there to hook up to. One ancor screw will have to be shorten to keep from running through the front of the grill. There is a adjustment on the radio for front and rear speakers .
Quote:
Originally Posted by hottrodd7
I just completed this upgrade over the weekend, and it is a bear.
I dropped in a full set of Polk Audio DXi Marine speakers. (5.25" Front, 4" Rear)
I managed to do it without taking down the whole dash/windshield assembly, but its a tight space to work in. I also soldered the connections vs using quick connects. I figured with all the vibs you get on a bike, it would reduce the need for me to take down everything to fix it should a quick connect decide to pop off. We'll see if that comes back to bite me in the @$$ somewhere down the road.
It took me a good 4 hours of work between take down and rebuild, being my first time doing a complete teardown. I had one extra bolt/washer left over after, and I think I know where it goes. A small oversight when putting the dash back together. :rolleyes: I'll put it back next time around,...
Good luck, and just take your time,...its a bit of a PITA.
Just did mine this past weekend. Tons of fun.
:yikes: I think I'm gonna be sick... :barf:
I also have all four in my RT and thought the fronts were STONE COLD SIMPLE compared to the rear. MAYBE had to loosen the glove box but that was it, I put them in with little effort as I remember. There was a post with a video that I somewhat followed, need to see if I can find it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Firefly
It is not that the rear install was hard just VERY time consuming. I had to dismantle the entire rear of the Spyder which is why I did the Corbin passenger arrests at the same time.
I agree they sound WAY better than stock at all volumes but what makes these nice is you can actually turn them up and even add a little bass without them soundong like grabage.
I would love to see your instructions also. You should have my email address already.Quote:
Originally Posted by Firefly
if you went with the polks the rear speakers they do not cover the entire rear OEM hole. they fit fine but there is a small gap around the base plate of the speakers. had dealer install as I did not want to deal with removing the rear area to install. He applied a high temp epoxy to fill in that small hole area just around the base of the speaker on two sides of the speaker there was tiny gap. just an FYI. Not sure if the J&M speakers are made to exact dimensions of the OEM speaker holes.
also I purchased base blockers (high pass filters) that were waterproof (well shrink wrapped to protect from moisture). they cut off the frequences below which the speaker can not produce anyway. the rear is a higher cut off as they are smaller speakers.
what this does is keep the speaker from distorting when trying to produce base frequencies it physically can not produce (too small a speaker). this allows the volume to be higher as well. also it protects the speakers from damage. the damage is not from the wattage but from clipping the amp (too high volume for the system) or also from too much distortion (ie too much base) that the speaker cannot produce.
http://www.bassblocker.com
gives you a description.
if you want to spend some $$ there are electronic crossovers to really fine tune the where the cut off frequency will be. used these in the car back in the day when I had subs and multiamps in my car ....
http://www.amazon.com/b?ie=UTF8&node=10981351
do not use speaker baffles as they will reduce the ability of the speaker to produce base. only use them where you need to protect the speaker from behind from moisture and dirt type application.