2009 SM5 Spyder hesitates and bogs down after Fuel fill up?..

Maybe someone can figure this out, my bike was low on gas the other week, so i went to my local gas station, filled it up, within a mile or two, was bogging down and hesitating, I drove it home and got the gas out of the tank thinking bad gas... I then got some premium and some sea foam and seemed to do the trick for now. Again, same deal a week later, low on gas, went to quick Trip and got the good stuff, same deal.. The bike hesitates and then kicks in, I thought it might be the fuel filter, so I replaced that, but to no avail.. The bike again will start strong, but when I ride it, it jerks and hesitates and kicks in here and there...

Any ideas what to check next?.. Thanks for any help

I would first check your vacuum lines off the throotle bodies. The old OEM rubber gets brittle and cracks develop. Replace them with silicone ones and make sure you keep them the same length as the OEM ones.

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Originally Posted by Ex-Rocket

I would first check your vacuum lines off the throotle bodies. The old OEM rubber gets brittle and cracks develop. Replace them with silicone ones and make sure you keep them the same length as the OEM ones.

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:agree: .... well known common issue with the vacuum hoses ..... this is where I would start first ..... Mike :thumbup:

Flooded evap system?

i took most of the panels off, so next would be the air box and then i can access the throttle body and check the hoses from there?

The throttle bodies will be located on the left side while sitting on the bike. I'm not sure if you have to remove the air box to get to the vacuum lines or not. Maybe someone that has done this will chime in.

I hate to bear bad news but my 2010 RT acted like you described. Did what was recommended by others in this thread. Had to eventually replace throttle body which was a known issue according to my dealer. But, BRP said the bike was too old to cover under warranty. Ouch! Hope the hoses cure your ryde.

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Originally Posted by laser1972

i took most of the panels off, so next would be the air box and then i can access the throttle body and check the hoses from there?

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Hey laser. You're actually looking for the MAP sensor on the left hand side of the throttle bodies. See pic. IIRC, on an GS you should be able to access it without any air box work. Your fuel pressure regulator might look different than this, but the two vacuum lines in question are the orange ones. Not to rule out evap system issues, either. That's why 998 owners are suggested to do a canisterectomy. And maybe someplace different beside the Quick Trip.

Hoses most likely while at it & that deep good idea check plugs if not just upgrade wires too.

I hope the vacuum hoses do the trick. Replacing them certainly won't hurt.

But I don't know how you'd get the problem only when you fill up the tank from any of these 'Possibilities'. The evap canister would be smelling to high heaven if it were flooded. I don't see how the throttle body would react negatively to a full tank. All of these issues, though possibly intermittent, would be, at the least, random, if not a constant problem. Same with a clogged fuel filter. And though this was not the fix. Not a bad idea to alienate it as the cause.

I will take a stab that is probably very unlikely. But it has to be something linked to a full tank. I'm thinking that if the vent hose were clogged, kinked or collapsed. With an empty tank, you'd have much less chance for pressure to build as the large majority of space would be air. But with a full tank, and a very small air space, pressure could build and possibly give you a rich mix. Still, I think this a long shot.

Will be interesting to find out what the problem is on this one.

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Originally Posted by Snowbelt Spyder

Hey laser. You're actually looking for the MAP sensor on the left hand side of the throttle bodies. See pic. IIRC, on an GS you should be able to access it without any air box work. Your fuel pressure regulator might look different than this, but the two vacuum lines in question are the orange ones. Not to rule out evap system issues, either. That's why 998 owners are suggested to do a canisterectomy. And maybe someplace different beside the Quick Trip.

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So i took some photos, am i in the ballpark, --- Also, bonus, i guess the previous owner added a "juice box" into the mix.. I never did anything with it..

The bike has ran fine until this problem, so I dont think that has anything to do with it

pics attached, thanks

With it running bad after fueling, it sure sounds like a failing purge valve.

I agree with purge Valve. Bruce

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Originally Posted by Gunner3773

With it running bad after fueling, it sure sounds like a failing purge valve.

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Yes, when new gas was put in both times, it was doing the bogging down, etc..

First time, i drained it out and put fresh stuff in and seems to work, but after it got low again, i filled it up and same deal...

I am checking the hoses for vacuum leaks, but they seem to be ok, but I might change them anyway if I can locate them..

The sensor you're looking for is that black rectangle attached with the big silver screw, with the green label. See pic. You'll need to move some of those other lines out of the way. The hose that you zeroed in on in pic #3 is just the crankcase breather. Not an issue with performance. Yes, a purge valve failure is usually caused by a saturated / failed canister because it sucked stuff up into it. That can cause these symptoms, also. The canisterectomy will solve that since you will block off that line. Plenty of info on here about that. I would do both items. PS - your vacuum lines will be black, not orange.

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Originally Posted by laser1972

So i took some photos, am i in the ballpark, --- Also, bonus, i guess the previous owner added a "juice box" into the mix.. I never did anything with it..

The bike has ran fine until this problem, so I dont think that has anything to do with it

pics attached, thanks

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juice box another possible complication if it’s failing.:sour:

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Originally Posted by Snowbelt Spyder

The sensor you're looking for is that black rectangle attached with the big silver screw, with the green label. See pic. You'll need to move some of those other lines out of the way. The hose that you zeroed in on in pic #3 is just the crankcase breather. Not an issue with performance. Yes, a purge valve failure is usually caused by a saturated / failed canister because it sucked stuff up into it. That can cause these symptoms, also. The canisterectomy will solve that since you will block off that line. Plenty of info on here about that. I would do both items. PS - your vacuum lines will be black, not orange.

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Ok, found it after moving a bunch of hoses and wires== what a mess

Anyway, inspection of the hoses look and feel fine, they dont look nor feel broken, dried up etc

I see people mentioning the purge valve next to the fuel filter, $40 part, so might be my next order..

The dealership is backed up for 2 weeks anyway, so might just try and replace a few things here and there and maybe It will work w/o their price and assistance

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Originally Posted by laser1972

Ok, found it after moving a bunch of hoses and wires== what a mess

Anyway, inspection of the hoses look and feel fine, they dont look nor feel broken, dried up etc

I see people mentioning the purge valve next to the fuel filter, $40 part, so might be my next order..

The dealership is backed up for 2 weeks anyway, so might just try and replace a few things here and there and maybe It will work w/o their price and assistance

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Update: ordered the purge valve, should be here by WED, i hope this could be the culprit, I assume i can use clamps that have the screw (same ones I used on the fuel filter), I hate those crimp clamps

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Originally Posted by laser1972

Ok, found it after moving a bunch of hoses and wires== what a mess

Anyway, inspection of the hoses look and feel fine, they dont look nor feel broken, dried up etc

I see people mentioning the purge valve next to the fuel filter, $40 part, so might be my next order..

The dealership is backed up for 2 weeks anyway, so might just try and replace a few things here and there and maybe It will work w/o their price and assistance

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The cracks are " microscopic " ..... this from others who couldn't see any cracks in their's .... Mike :thumbup:

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Originally Posted by laser1972

Update: ordered the purge valve, should be here by WED, i hope this could be the culprit, I assume i can use clamps that have the screw (same ones I used on the fuel filter), I hate those crimp clamps

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The way to do this is to simply plug the hose going to the purge valve. Makes no difference to the engine function and will tell you, for sure, if the purge valve is bad.

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Originally Posted by BajaRon

The way to do this is to simply plug the hose going to the purge valve. Makes no difference to the engine function and will tell you, for sure, if the purge valve is bad.

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so since i have to take the hose off eventually to replace the valve, the top hose going into it, i just un clamp it and then plug it, start the bike and what am i looking for engine wise?

Again, when the bike starts , it runs strong, its only when I get it out and about it starts acting up

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Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911

The cracks are " microscopic " ..... this from others who couldn't see any cracks in their's .... Mike :thumbup:

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can i put a little moisture on the hoses to see if any bubbles or anything comes from the hose?...

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Originally Posted by laser1972

so since i have to take the hose off eventually to replace the valve, the top hose going into it, i just un clamp it and then plug it, start the bike and what am i looking for engine wise?

Again, when the bike starts , it runs strong, its only when I get it out and about it starts acting up

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You can plug the purge valve permanently if you remove the evap canister. But I would simply ride like you normally would with the panel off so you get fresh air into the evap canister while you're testing.

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Originally Posted by laser1972

can i put a little moisture on the hoses to see if any bubbles or anything comes from the hose?...

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Just replace them with good silicone rubber. They're cheap insurance.

2nd UPDATE:

I changed the purge valve, when the new fuel filter was installed, no change...

When the purge valve was changed, it does not hesitate or surge, but runs rough now... Have new coil, plugs and wires next...

I used the screw in clamps on the purge valve instead of the crimp clamps (same ones i used on the fuel filter lines)

I doubt that would make a difference?

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Originally Posted by laser1972

2nd UPDATE:

I changed the purge valve, when the new fuel filter was installed, no change...

When the purge valve was changed, it does not hesitate or surge, but runs rough now... Have new coil, plugs and wires next...

I used the screw in clamps on the purge valve instead of the crimp clamps (same ones i used on the fuel filter lines)

I doubt that would make a difference?

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Clamps don't make a difference on the purge valve. That's not it. I can't imagine that ignition would change with fuel level. I will be surprised if these make a difference. Without reading through all the threads. Have you considered just having diagnostics run at the dealer? You are spending a lot of time and money replacing parts that aren't helping. A thorough diagnostic might save you quite a bit of both.