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So many new Can Am's having the TB's replaced, some more than once, so obviously the replacement units are the same as what come with the machine to begin with.
Is it the TB themselves that are faulty, or is it a computer issue that cause the TB to go bad?
:banghead:
There has been a few changes to the TB that have pretty much solved the issues that were most common. The latest was a software fix. That's not to say a TB will never fail now but the won't fail for the same reasons as before.
Lamont,
It seems that all the attention has been directed to the 2011 & 12 model years. My 2010 RT is at the dealer now waiting for its second throttle body replacement. The first one went out in MT, and the second on the way to Cuba. Is there any reason to believe they have solved the problem with 2010's, or can I expect another failure in 4-5,000 miles? I'd appreciate any knowledge you can shed.
Thanks,
I had work done on my 2011 RTS at Cowtown. Bike would not idle, spoke to Lamont and he directed me to the shop where BRP techs were helping out. Not sure what all they did but 2+ hours later the called my name and rolled the:f_spider: out for me. Did a short 55 mile ride that evening and then loaded it on the trailer for the trip home. This weekend the Minnesota chapter did a ride up north. For me it was about 250 miles round trip. I did not have any problems but kept looking at my gas gauge, it was hardly moving. Before the work was done my low fuel light would come on around 130 miles which meant another 30 miles before fillip. Generally got about 30mpg. On this ride I averaged 33.8 mpg. Kept to the speed limit and this was 1 up. What ever was done I am happy.
Yes, the bushings have been changed in the throttle plates.Quote:
Originally Posted by dancogan
Thanks for the response. That explains the change in part number from the current TB. :thumbup:
I too have problems with the TB's. Mine quit in the garage so I was lucky and was not on the road. The dealer came and got it and it ran enough to get it loaded on the trailer. They had it for a week and found the TB was NG. They replace it and brought the bike back to my house which is 2 1/2 hours away and unloaded it. I took it down to the station to fill up and take a little trip to the coast for lunch. I drove 2 mile to pick up this young lady and when we got on the bike, LIMP MODE again and the bike shut down. Called the dealer and their driver was almost back at the shop. So, the next day they came and got again and guess up - started right up and climbed on the trailer without a faults showing. But they got to the shop and all three codes were there again. They reset it and drove it about 100' and she shutdown. A call was placed to BRP again and they said to replace the TB again as they are having issues with them. :(:banghead:
My TB quit on my Smurfette, thankfully in my driveway and not in East Cupcake somewhere! I had been reading the posts regarding the issues with the RT's, and told my dealership about it. They are constantly amazed about the good information that's out here! Thank you again, my Spyder family:bowdown:
That's good to know... Thanks! :thumbup:Quote:
Originally Posted by Lamonster
Great to know. NOW, how do I go about having BRP and my dealer replace mine? After a year long battle with the DPS unit on my 2010 RTS and finally having it replaced again last week, I'm not optimistic.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lamonster
I am on my 2nd TB and they also replaced shims 2x. The bike is back in the shop again and I only have 1400 miles on it. We are afraid to take it on trips because not sure when its going to stop working.
It has been blamed on several things mainly the way I ride is what they are saying.
1. Fist time they said I was shifting at too low an RPM and need to shift between 3500 to 4000 RPM after a month in the shop.
2. 400 miles later they said that I was still running at too low an RPM and that caused it to go out again.
The service managers have been giving wrong info to me and it is not shifting at too low RPM it is running the bike on the streets at too low rpm. Big difference.
I had an 09 and never had this issue so I have a hard time with understanding why if I drive this one the same way that it causes this problem.
The RT is 230 lbs heavier that the RS and it is importaint to run at higher rpm's. On a SE the clutch is slipping under 3500 rpm's.Quote:
Originally Posted by spyderdiva
This is not a recall so they won't change it just because. If you have a TB failure then you'll get a new TB with the new bushings.Quote:
Originally Posted by frank3
lamont are you saying that if you shift at the higher rpms then the t.b. won't be an issue?
The throttle body on my 2010 was replaced under warranty and you could definitely feel a difference in moving the throttle butterflies between the two. The new one was much smoother than the old one.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lamonster
Cotton
No I'm not, I am saying that those are the rpm's you should be above when shifting.Quote:
Originally Posted by scooterexpress
ok thanks for the clarifying that.
to ensure that I stay above those RPMs why not just keep the RT in trailer mode?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lamonster
A little over three weeks ago CanAm had a demo event out by me at a local dealer.
I went and test rode a RT, the CanAm guys leading the demo ride told me to not shift at all, until I got over 5,000 RPMs.
Just thought I would share.
Boyd
If running RPM's too low cause the TB to malfunction, why don't they recompute the computers on SE models so that they downshift when it gets "too low"?????
Also, why how does low RPM's affect the TB?
See post # 16.Quote:
Originally Posted by ulflyer
While now it is another issue they say that if you have the Throttle open even a hair when you come to a stop that will cause it not to down shift. After the throttle body issues I was on the way back to the dealer and mad a stop in the turning lane to wait for traffic and the bike didn't down shift from 5th gear. It would not even down shift when I tried manually. I finally got it to go into 3rd and when I open the throttle it finally dropped to first gear. That tells me the throttle wasn't open and it should of down shifted on its own.
A clarification might be needed here.Quote:
Originally Posted by bikeguy
"moving the throttle butterflies" You must be talking about having the unit in your hand and manually flipping them;right?
The RTs use a throttle by wire system so twisting the loud grip would prove nothing... Your right wrist tells the computer what it wants and the computer tells a servo how far to open up things up...
Yes, both the old and the new throttle bodies were on the workbench and I manually moved the butterflies on each. I didn't make that clear in my other post.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Denman
Cotton
I kind of figured that... but it never hurts to ask! :thumbup: