Losing pressure. Hard to get in first gear. 2400 dollars for part. 4000 dollars out the door. Ride bike every day was told might not get part till March. This is my fourth spyder. This is my last spyder can't afford these kind of fixes.
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Losing pressure. Hard to get in first gear. 2400 dollars for part. 4000 dollars out the door. Ride bike every day was told might not get part till March. This is my fourth spyder. This is my last spyder can't afford these kind of fixes.
What part is it that you need?
:popcorn:
It's called a hydraulic housing assembly. A non repairable part. SE6 the inner workings that has to do with paddle shifting. I have never heard of one going bad as I have had 4 spyders with paddle shift no problems. I am told it is not holding pressureQuote:
Originally Posted by Mikey
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Part # 22 in this diagram..
I'm skeptical ....:popcorn: .....goodluck .....I'd get a second opinion & maybe a third .....Mike :thumbup:
Yea it seems like you would have to have very acidic oil for this to go bad but you would think it would take out other parts before the housing leaked .. maybe a bad cast?
I would be hoping for a bad gasket, o ring or seal within the assembly? But you wouldn't know until you take it apart.
People have had issues with bad casts on other engine parts.
Thanks looks expensive. Have used amsoil for several hundred thousand miles between 4 spyders. Shop told me it could be a seal leaking. Need to replace whole unit. New clutch while it's apart. 60,000 miles on this 2016 RTS
Well, I’m kinda skeptical, too, because “not holding pressure” is too general of a term. Besides, all of those internal parts are replaceable individually….including seals…without having to give you the whole unit. It could simply be a 200 dollar solenoid valve, or 3 dollar seal. I see that you had 28000 miles on it 4 years ago, 60,000 now. I trust that the HCM filter has been changed as required by the schedule? That would sure affect pressure. This is one of those things that calls for a second opinion if you’re so inclined. Your decision. Good luck.Quote:
Originally Posted by oneway
I'm having difficulty understanding this:The SE6 clutch is ENGAGED with HCM oil pressure. Per the Service ManualQuote:
Losing pressure. Hard to get in first gear.
Are you saying after shifting into 1st, the Spyder does not move forward as you increase throttle? Or are you saying the Spyder does not shift easily from N to 1st?Quote:
Clutch clamping with hydraulic force via clutch piston – hydraulic pressure is generated by the HCM. The clutch is disengaged by reducing hydraulic pressure to clutch piston, clutch springs open the pressure plate.
Next question: with the engine off after releasing the parking brake, can you push your Spyder forward and backward?
Next question: what was the measured HCM line pressure while the engine was running and in 1st gear (I assume the dealer used BUDS)?
If the dealer didn't provide you this pressure information, you need to measure it. Below screw #4 (tightening sequence) of the HCM filter is a standard 3-wire pressure transducer that measures clutch engagement pressure (0 - 174 psi). One wire (VT/BU) is Ground, one wire (VT/GN) is Vo bias voltage and one wire (YE/WH) is Vs sensor voltage. Turn the ignition on and carefully using needle-type connector back probes, verify the function of each wire. Vo is probably 5V although it might be 12V and Vs will be 0.5V although if Vo is 12V it will be 5V.
Once you have verified the wire functions, connect one probe to Ground and the other to Vs. Start the engine. Vs should increase albeit not by much. It may be a 200psi transducer although more likely 300psi. For a 5V Vo 200psi transducer, the clutch pressure is ((Vs - 0.5V) / 0.02) psi. 5V Vo 300psi transducer is ((Vs - 0.5V) / 0.03) psi.
Shift into 1st and increase the throttle to 1500rpm. You should be seeing Vs at least 2V probably higher.
If Vs reaches 2V or more, then your HCM probably isn't the problem. Your problem is more likely the holding nut for the clutch assembly has loosened and backed out a turn or two. Expensive labor for disassembly is still required but expensive parts shouldn't be needed. Do a search for this problem -- it has occurred before.
If Vs doesn't reach 2V then yeah I think you're going to need some expensive parts.
Had similar issue on SE5, hopefully is just seals & gaskets. https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...ranny-heads-up
Absolutely get another opinion. AND ask for the printed BUDS report.