Printable View
Now that my sprocket is done and belt fine at 150 Krikit I need to bleed brakes-One Man Job- 25,000 Miles.
Is there a good video? I understand you install the speed bleeders but actual video's are lacking?
I just want to do the Left,Right and rear for now . Are there written (with pictures) or a good video on a Spyder? Is there a part # for the bleeders that fit a 2015 F3? Thanks for any help!
It's pretty simple just install your speed bleeders, and start with the left front, then work your way around. The bleeders are the greatest things, you'll never want to go back to the old fashion way ever again. Watch your tank and don't let them go dry.
Your 2015 F3 is probably the same as my 2014 RT https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0016554TA/
I kinda like doing two trips around to ensure fresh fluid throughout the system. Some folks also bleed the VCM which is good to do and fairly easy to access. I haven't yet but will at 100K miles.
PS take Mikey's warning to heart. If either tank goes dry getting the air out of the system will be challenging without BUDS.
Maybe its so simple I can,t see. So the speed bleeder screws in permanently and there is another nut on the top you loosen 1/4 to 1/2 turn before you pump the brakes 4-5 times-then you tighten the top portion- add fluid to the master cylinder and go on to the next wheel? When you take the stock bleeder out and install the speed bleeder does it hurt that there is bound to be some fluid escape before you can tighten?Quote:
Originally Posted by BertRemington
There’s no extra nut on top. It works like a standard blended fitting except it has an internal check valve so that you don’t have to close it after each pump. Loosen the bleeder, bleed it, close the bleeder.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sarge707
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8mttu3si0u4
Thanks- I get it now. This guy does a pretty good job. So I could take the Left off bleed-then put it back on and take right off and bleed - then put it back on and do the rear bleed all in the same time period. Since the master cylinder is right above the brake pedal it will be easy to make sure the level stays safe!!
Ahh so you're kinda new at this.
The SpeedBleeders have two differences from regular bleeders. First is the one-way check valve SS mentioned. Second is the gray goo that seals the threads to the calipers. Do not remove the goo and don't turn the SB more than necessary as the goo is essential to avoid introduction of air when the brake pedal is on the return stroke.
As part of the SB plumbing you want a catch bottle filled with enough fluid to be at least 1/2" above the end of the tube. Amazon offers the Edelbrock Russell bag which probably works excellently but I've never used one.
You are going to have some fluid loss when installing the SB. Have towels ready. Use only water or alcohol for cleanup.
After tightening the SB, check the fluid level, untighten the SB about 1/4 turn (more if needed); slowly but firmly push the brake pedal down; slowly but firmly allow the brake pedal to return to the top position; check the fluid level.....
After 8 years your F3 brake system in CT probably has absorbed quite a bit of water. For your first round, pump at least 2 oz of fluid. Keep checking that fluid level!!! Tighten the SB as normal when finished. I like to use 6-point tools to reduce the chances of rounding off the bleeder hexes. I also like to do two rounds but probably isn't necessary. I ran track cars and brake fussiness carried over to my Spyder.
Question on which speed bleeder you should buy. I know for my particle Spyder that I need the SB6100 and the SB1010S for the ABS module. Do you need Buds to do the ABS module? If Buds is needed then will it hurt to just do the three wheels without doing the ABS? How much fluid does the ABS hold? I notice they have the cooper looking ones and then they have the stainless steel ones. Which one or are both compatible to the Spyder? Is there are advantage or disadvantage to either one? I need to flush mine in the very near future and just want to get the right ones. Thanks.
I would get all my bleeders out and ready to go, make sure your tanks are full of fluid, change out all the bleeder screws over to the speed bleeders, and like I said make sure your tanks stay full. Then I would get my catch bottle set up on one of the wheels with a piece of clear hose on it so you can see what's going on, then if it's been a while and you want all the fluid changed out I would take a turkey baster or pump of some sort and suck the tank as dry as you can and fill with new fluid, then open your bleeder screw and pump till you get good colored fluid in the hose, and shut the bleeder off and go to the next wheel and repeat, until you have made it around the bike, some would say do it twice around, do what makes you feel good, just don't run the tanks empty!! Put your caps over the ends of your bleeder screws and wash whatever spillage you got off your bike with water! Good Luck it's really not that hard.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sarge707
I will get flamed for this, but what little there is in that ABS, I would just pass it by, that's what I did, and there's plenty of members that have done the same thing, do what makes you feel good, but I believe there's a valve in that system that has to be open with Budds to totally do the job to the book!Quote:
Originally Posted by Ex-Rocket
I use the SS ones. Just me. My preferred hardware choice. If you are just flushing out the old fluid, and replacing with fresh, there are hundreds of owners out there that have skipped the ABS unit entirely and not used BUDS. It’s such a pain to get to. Never a problem with doing that. Now, if you are truly bleeding in order to get air out, then that’s a different story. There’s just a tiny amount of old fluid that might be hiding within the valve body of the ABS unit. It’s irrelevant. And the first time you actually have an ABS actuation, it all gets mixed up anyway.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ex-Rocket
Oh, sorry Mikey. Didn’t see you there. You won’t get flamed from me.
:ohyea:
Is it mandatory to have the hose submersed in the catch bottle when you have the one way speeder valve?Quote:
Originally Posted by BertRemington
No. But it has always been a good practice especially without the speed bleeders. Just a little extra step to prevent air entering back into the system.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sarge707
speedbleeder.com Has an application chart for Can Am Spyders.
According to my manual the capacity of the brake fluid system is 17.9 oz. In your estimate how much fluid do I need to bleed the system and not have the reservoirs go dry while doing the system? Thanks
Pump at least 2oz per caliper into the capture bottle for each round trip (LF, RF, rear) and make two round trips. This is a minimum amount of fluid.
Well I did the left front and the speed bleeder (Non SS) broke off?? Why do I always learn the hard way. I put the wheels back on and made sure not to touch the ignition. What now. I can reach the internal part of the bleeder with my drill without taking of the fender But what is the preferred easy out method? I think I'm going to use the stock bleeders and get an assistant for a few minutes? Any special way to get the broke one out.
Sad to hear about your loss. I've always found brake bleeders a bit fussy. Always used 6-point sockets for initial loosen and 6-point wrenches afterwards including final tighten. Went light on tighten and then pressure tested several times. So far it's worked for me.
Here's a link to an Amazon buyer who extracted a broken one https://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-r...=3623KSGH85D6C
Thanks! Its time to back it in the corner and take the left fender off and access all the ways I have seen on YouTube. It can sit a while Thanks to my Ryker and once its out I'm going to do a good one man bleed with the stock bleeders.Quote:
Originally Posted by BertRemington
I dodged a Big bullet! It appears the original bleeder assembly is 2 part. For less than $20 I can get the two part bleeder assembly which probably contains the original dark colored bleeder pictured so I don't have to buy a $350 Caliper!!